Categories
Review

Tent de Teto Expedition – Blue Camping

The Blue Camping roof tent comes with a purpose to serve not only the off road market, but also family camping. That’s why they sent their Expedition model with a closing attachment for our evaluation.

The roof tent has all the structure and very traditional design and characteristic already known worldwide. The main objective is for the rectangular volume fixed to the car’s luggage compartment to be easily unfolded, revealing the assembled tent. The bedroom has twice the area of ​​the “box” closed over the car and already accommodates the mattress that can even remain with the bedding, pillows and some belongings when on the move.

Our test was done just like a traditional buyer. The model was chosen via the manufacturer’s website and delivered a few days later via carrier, agreed by Blue Camping, which offers free shipping throughout Brazil. In addition to the chosen model – Expedition – the closing attachment was chosen, which transforms the tent projection area into a protected room. This one came inside the tent that also accompanied 2 pillows and covers. Our goal was to fulfill what was promised by the manufacturer: The camper himself installed the tent in his car without great difficulties.


Two volumes delivered: Large box with complete tent, installation kit, bars and attachment. Small Box with Pillows + covers. | Foto Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

The tent is heavier than we would have thought, but once installed in the car there is no need to worry. Once the cardboard is opened, the tent is already in the same condition as when the luggage rack is installed without the protective cover (which came folded in). Once the tapes are released, you can now access the accompanying items. Our goal was the installation kit and the intermediate bars in order to prepare it for installation in the luggage compartment. This initial service is more time consuming, but practically unique even if you want to remove the tent from the car after the trips. This is because there are a pair of intermediate bars to be installed in the tent. The reason they are no longer installed is because it will depend on the type of your rack. If it is of the longitudinal type, the intermediate bars must be arranged transversely. If the rack is transversal, the bars should be installed longitudinally in the tent. In addition to the type of car rack, it also depends on the position you want the tent to be arranged in the car – opening to the side of the vehicle or to the rear. In any case, the side bars must always be placed in the tent perpendicularly to the car rack.


Tent in open packaging and installation kit and accessories. Accompanied the wrenches for nuts and bolts. | Foto Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

To choose the position of the tent in relation to the car it is necessary to reflect a little. It can be opened (unfolded) both to the sides of the car and to the rear. When opened to the rear, there is that nice possibility of using the trunk as an attachment to the set serving as a support for luggage and even the kitchen. There are two questions to be evaluated for this choice: Most of the time this is only possible in cars with trunk with side opening, since the overhead doors will almost always hit the open tent, not allowing the full opening of the luggage rack . Another issue is that the roof tent has a larger dimension than the other. In the Expedition model the tent width is 1.40m, which remains when closed. The length of 2.40m is reduced to 1.20m when folded, making the width of the “box” on the car to be 1.20m at the side opening and 1.40m at the rear opening. This ends up leaving this option of the rear choice for bigger and wider cars or pickup trucks. Anyway it is a matter of proportion, since any car can receive these 1.40m in width.


Rear or side opening options – Requires reflection. | Foto Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

Having chosen the position of the tent in relation to the car, it is time to fix the intermediate bars in the tent. The base already comes with 4 holes at the bottom for this purpose. They are already arranged quadratically to receive the bars in both vector directions. There are 4 sets of screws and nuts. The screw will be passed through the inside of the tent, crossing the floor through the existing holes, being screwed in the torque nuts that will be fitted in the aluminum profile of the bar. The widest part of the bar touches the bottom of the tent. Make sure the bar is exactly centered in relation to the tent. At the end place the rubber terminals for closing and finishing.

Profile of the intermediate bar + rubber terminal. | Foto Marcos Pivari – MaCamp


Install the intermediate bar. Inverted tent (bottom up). Bar always perpendicular to the car rack. | Foto Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

Along with the installation kit comes a “male” profile that fits perfectly in the middle bar. There are 8 of them, two for each attachment point in the car rack. At each of these points there will be 2 threads that will receive the hole rule that will press the vehicle’s rack through 2 nuts (also of torque) included. It’s time to position the tent in the desired location on the roof of the car. In this stage, the help of another person was needed where we suffered a little due to the weight. Although the 50 kg of the tent is not absurd for two people to carry, the position and the need to raise the piece a lot made the work hard. If you have 4 people it would be ideal right now. In addition to the desired position and the centering of the tent in relation to the width of the car, it is good to check that the trunk (if tilting) opens perfectly. Then just place the screws and press the set with the ruler drilled in 2 different distances to suit the models of the racks. Tighten one nut and then another until you have full pressure on both. Finally, just put the protective cover on the tent, secure it well and leave for the camp.


Tent fixed on the rack. | Foto Marcos Pivari – MaCamp


Install the cover securely. | Foto Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

NO CAMPING

The operation of the roof tent is very simple. First, the car must be positioned in the desired location and orientation, keeping the vehicle well level. Now it’s time to release and remove the protective cover. Loosen all bonds and open the child. For this, the ladder must be opened to serve as a lever in the opening. Open, the ladder is supported on the floor until it finds the ideal leveling. The rest is adjustment: window awnings, openings and other perfumeries.

Upon opening the tent, a large, well-ventilated bedroom is revealed. The 1.40m wide and 2.40m long bed leaves space either on the foot or at the head for some belongings or luggage. The entrance door has a closing element and a mosquito net, both with double zipper. In the same configuration, there is another opening on the back side that allows a lot of lighting and ventilation. On the sides more openings. Also in two elements, you can open everything with zippers. Outside the openings have “awnings” that protect from the sun and rain. For this task, it is necessary to place the 6 included rods by inserting them in existing holes in the base and attaching the eyelets on the hook tip, leaving them slightly bent.


Tent accompanied 2 pillows + covers + mattress cover | Photo Paula / Marcos Pivari – MaCamp


Great ventilation openings | Photo Paula / Marcos Pivari – MaCamp


Rear “outlet” with panoramic view | Photo Paula / Marcos Pivari – MaCamp


House assembled our way | Photo Paula / Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

In the specific model of our Review – The Expedition – there is a cover in front of the entrance door that serves to protect the access, in addition to being prepared for the closing annex of the lower room. Even without the attachment, which is optional, this “balcony” makes life easier for the camper on rainy days. For this differential there is one more step in the assembly, which is the fitting of another arch of the structure. It is collected in the tent box and is fitted at specific points.


Setting the balcony. | Photo Paula / Marcos Pivari – MaCamp


Placement of extra rod for models with balcony and preparation for attachment. | Photo Paula / Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

Some indoor treats complement the Blue Camping tent. There are screen pockets to accommodate belongings, upper vents independent of the windows that seek to avoid condensation.


Total interior. | Photo: Sergio Friso


Articulated system for opening and closing together with the cover. | Photo Paula / Marcos Pivari – MaCamp

When closing, there are no secrets. The awning rods are removed and the “box” is folded with the ladder itself. Accompanying the product are 4 rubber bands with hooks and specific anchoring to assist the collection of cloths to the center of the tent. Attached all the straps that fix the “box”, just replace the protective cover and continue traveling.


Rubber bands help to keep the cloths inside the tent at the time of closing. | Photo: Sergio Friso

MaCamp ANALYSIS:

The tent behaved very well in our initial tests, but since we didn’t get rain, we still haven’t considered the test completely. We will still complement this review. On the road, the tent proved to be very quiet in terms of aerodynamics. We feared noises or some change in handling, which did not happen. We even got rain on the way, but the cover proved to be efficient in watertightness. It is necessary to pay attention when fixing the cover, pulling and tightening the elastic well. For greater security we tie it to the rack.

In the camping the assembly took place in a very practical way. The “lever” system for opening with the ladder is very light. At the premiere, the tent heated up very quickly under the midday sun and was very cool as soon as we opened the windows. As it is extensive, in addition to the sleeping area, there is still a beautiful space left for some junk in our “foot”. We slept in three people (couple + 2 year old child) very well. With children it is very important not to leave them alone without supervision, as mosquito nets also open through a zipper leaving the fall at risk. On a mild night, no condensation occurred. On a cooler night it condensed, but we cannot be a reference, as we sleep with the tent absolutely closed.

A striking difference of this tent in relation to the traditional ones of the market is the ladder, which even generates many positive comments from other experienced campers in Barraca de Teto. However, this difference results in a higher height of the closed tent, which even has a “top hat” in high relief on the cover.

For the analysis and steps of installing and using the tent attachment and the side awning, see a new review soon.

Marcos Pivari

NOTE: This tent was sent by BLUE CAMPING for our analysis. Meet this and other products.

UPDATE !!!: The review of the 2nd generation of the Expedition Blue Camping Tent was published on 11/2017 with improvements to the model of this review. At this moment the company is already selling the 3rd generation.

Categories
Review

Acumulador SHURFLO – Loja BLUHOME

Also called a “pre-pressurizer”, the Shurflo pressure accumulator has the power to optimize the hydraulic system of the trailer or home engine without the need for an ultra-modern pump or full of increments. The Pressure Accumulator regulates the pressure, controls the “pulsating” effect of the pump, and also serves as a kind of “damping” of the system. In view of its importance, the staff at BLU-HOME, the RV parts, and equipment store made a point of sending us two copies for Review.

FUNCTIONING: A hydraulic system for a recreational vehicle, in addition to the direct water inlets, is summarized in a small set of segments of pipes or hoses that are found after the water pump to the taps and showers. The water coming out of the box is pressurized by the pump which, with the taps closed, exerts a maximum pressure (particularly for each model) until its automatic valve turns it off. At this time, the entire pipeline is exposed to that pressure to a limited extent.

SYSTEM PRESSURE: With each pump “on” and “off”, the great pressure variation ends up remaining even for the pipes or hoses that are generally flexible and with several connectors and splices that can suffer from this oscillation. In addition, pumps that do not have a “by-pass” system or even count, but with low capacity, can present the famous “pulse”.

PULSATION EFFECT: When we close the tap a little, the flow of the pump being greater than the flow of the tap, causes the piping to fill and pressurize first by locking the pump. While the tap remains open with little flow, the pressure drops in a few moments, causing the pump automatic to restart again, restarting the endless cycle. This “on-off” followed can cause problems or even burn the pump, in addition to compromising the piping mainly in the connections.

BANG EFFECT: In addition to the above events, whenever the pump locks and the tap opens, it will be subjected to the plumbing system, “dry” pressure blows or relief from them and will certainly be felt in the use of taps and showers.

ACCUMULATOR SOLUTIONS: It is on the above effects that the pressure accumulator acts by making it softer or canceling some of them. The device takes on the role of pressure in the system. Prepared for this function is where the pressure peaks will be concentrated. In addition, the pulsation effect will be reduced substantially by increasing the intervals and, in cases of greater flow, canceling such effect. For surges and blows in the system, the accumulator tank will play a role in smoothing these forces, resulting in a smoother system operation.

BENEFITS FOR THE PUMP: For the water pump, it means longer service life, especially in the “automatic” system, which usually causes problems first. The item “consumption” is also benefited. With fewer cycles and peaks in the engine, the pump’s energy consumption will be lower and even the pump’s noise will be lower, meaning more comfort for the occupant. Saving water is also a reality, because with less flow without discomfort, less water will be used.

It is not just a chamber: Many people think that the Shurflo accumulator is just a simple air chamber made of plastic with a different design, prescribing the option of “manufacturing” homemade accumulators using PVC tubes with lids and flanges. They are mistaken. The shurflo accumulators have an internal air bag that can be “inflated” so that the necessary and desired pressure for the closed hydraulic system of the trailer can be regulated. For this reason, the device body also has a much higher pressure resistance capacity than the normal water inlet. In homemade accumulators, levels of improvement of the pump pulsation are achieved, but are regulated by the actual pressure of the water pump.

FEATURES: The equipment is quite simple. Lightweight, it is all made of injected plastic with the 1/2 inch thread connections incorporated. Both the chamber screws and the pressure nozzle are made of stainless steel. It has a hole for fixing in the RV and comes with two protective covers at the outlets.

THE REVIEW: We apply the accumulators to our trailer, which has two separate pumps, one for cold water and the other for hot water. Although they have a bypass system that can dispense with the device for the “pulse” item, it can help with the service in addition to solving other issues. In our case, eliminating the effects of “blows” in the system, in addition to regulating the system when using the “direct water” system. In this case, the camping tap water supplies the trailer without the need for a pump and the accumulators regulate the external pressure in order to equalize it. In normal use of pumps, even with the bypass , the accumulators help to improve the anti-pulsation effects even more.

 Pump “ BYPASS ” system

UNBOXING: The accumulators arrived at our headquarters packed in an illustrated box and very well protected in bubble wrap. The pressure air nozzle comes with a metal cap and the 1/2 inch male threaded connections have a blue plastic cap.

INSTALLATION: The accumulator, despite having two connections (input and output), can be installed in different and free ways, even if using only one of the connections. Always after the pump, it must also be placed before the action of filters or check valves. The positioning of the device is also free, however the factory recommends leaving the pressure loading valve facing upwards. “ Threaded fittings (plastic / nylon only) should be tightened about 1/2 to 1 turn after tightening by hand. Never exceed 6 ft / lbs [88 Nm] of torque on turns.”To make these instructions feasible without the use of technical tools, it pays to use the plastic“ butterfly ”type connections (optional) and tighten them only with the strength that your hands are capable of. In case of leaks, tighten further with the aid of a tool.

PRE-LOAD:The accumulator charge must be carried out with hand pumps. avoiding gas station pumps that can exert pressure above the limit to re-read from there. Bicycle or even electric pumps to inflate a car tire will give pressure slowly. If the pump does not have a pressure gauge, specific external gauges can be used. The correct pressure for the accumulator preload is the same as the reclosure rating of the pressure pump automatic. One example, 45PSI pumps, switch off at this pressure and restart the automatic from 30PSI on the system. It is exactly these 30PSI that should be the pressure in the preload of the device. There are still more technical applications for regulating the preload and composition of systems with readings and suppression of water hammer, but these only with professional devices and tools.

USE / REVIEW:Our test took place with two different scenarios. The first was the application of the accumulator in the old system of our trailer that was served by a single old water pump of 1.1GPM Shurflo that fed both the hot and cold water systems. The second scenario was in the testing environment of 2 Sea-Flo pumps that were the result of a review at MaCamp. In that case, despite being installed in the trailer system, they were not permanently placed and both tested in the same unique hot water system as our trailer. The difference between the two scenarios is that the old 1.1GPM pump does not have any by-pass system, although it already has an automatic (essential function in the pump for the application of an accumulator device). SEA-Flo pumps, in addition to the automatic system, with promised by-pass systems that are nothing more than internal shortcuts that seek exactly to reduce the pump’s pulsating effect. SEA-Flo pumps are different (one with 3 and the other with 5 diaphragms).

 External and fully provisional test links.

SCENE 1:With the Pump in a somewhat “original” form of the trailer, an old 1.1 GPM Shurflo made the connection of the accumulator as simple as possible (one inlet) through a hose that meets the closed water system. Her normal situation without the device is a flow well suited to the trailer, but with the need to always use the tap all open. Any dosage in the handle already starts to pulse quickly. When the tap is turned on, the pump immediately turns on with normal water flow and when it closes, it immediately turns off by locking the water. With the presence of the accumulator and it is properly loaded with internal pressure in the preload, things change. When opening the tap, the pressure coming out of the water is very high, decreasing to the normal flow after a few seconds. When we close the tap, the pump continues to run for a few seconds and “locks” very smoothly where its noise clearly demonstrates that the rotation is decreasing due to the increase in pressure. The pulse rate decreases extremely when we open the tap in a minimum flow of water, turning off and on at much more sparse intervals, and there is not much difference in flow when turned on or off. When the flow of the faucet is higher (but at an intensity that without the accumulator already made the pump pulse), the pump does not even turn off and, consequently, pulsates. being that there is not much difference in flow when turned on or off. When the flow of the faucet is higher (but at an intensity that without the accumulator already made the pump pulse), the pump does not even turn off and, consequently, pulsates. being that there is not much difference in flow when turned on or off. When the flow of the faucet is higher (but at an intensity that without the accumulator already made the pump pulse), the pump does not even turn off and, consequently, pulsates.

SCENARIO 2: In the review we carried out of the SEA-Flo pumps, we also inserted the presence of the accumulator, but in this case without testing the different preloads. We use the preload that comes from the factory that already matches the nominal characteristics of the red pump.

CONCLUSION: In the first scenario where the pump does not have a “bypass” the accumulator proved to be 100% effective and enormously necessary, since it allows the use of less water through the terminals, in addition to preserving the hydraulic set of the trailer. In the second scenario, the internal “bypass” system proved to be dispensable in the “pulsation” category. However, the trailer piping still has this damping system that can come from both the pump and the direct water system, leaving the application of the accumulator to the customer’s preference. In our case, even applying pumps with a “ bypass ”, we still insisted on preserving the use and application of the accumulators in both lines (hot and cold).

CHARACTERISTICS: Maximum Pressure: 125 PSI (8.6 BAR); Volume: 0.620L; Length: 22cm; Diameter: 9.5cm; External material: nylon; Inner bladder material: Butyl; Connection: 1/2 ″ male thread X2.

PRICE: At the time of this review the product was sold for R $ 349.00 at BLUHOME + Shipping.

WHERE TO BUY: At BLUHOME itself , via phone or whatsapp (47) 9.9182-0033 , e-mail ( contato@bluhome.com.br ) or at the PHYSICAL SHOP , Rua das Missões, 1445 – Ponta Aguda – Blumenau – Santa Catarina.

REVIEW – PRODUCT: This equipment was sent by BLUHOME who relied on MaCamp’s know-how to test its products in the Reviews section. Tests were done in our KG-330 trailer in the State of Rio de Janeiro and on trips through the States of SP, SC, PR, RS and RJ.

Categories
Review

SHURFLO Accumulator – BLUHOME Store

Also called a “pre-pressurizer”, the Shurflo pressure accumulator has the power to optimize the hydraulic system of the trailer or home engine without the need for an ultra-modern pump or full of increments. The Pressure Accumulator regulates the pressure, controls the “pulsating” effect of the pump, and also serves as a kind of “damping” of the system. In view of its importance, the staff at BLU-HOME, the RV parts and equipment store made a point of sending us two copies for Review.

FUNCTIONING: A hydraulic system for a recreational vehicle, in addition to the direct water inlets, is summarized in a small set of segments of pipes or hoses that are found after the water pump to the taps and showers. The water coming out of the box is pressurized by the pump which, with the taps closed, exerts a maximum pressure (particularly for each model) until its automatic valve turns it off. At this time, the entire pipeline is exposed to that pressure to a limited extent.

SYSTEM PRESSURE: With each pump “on” and “off”, the great pressure variation ends up remaining even for the pipes or hoses that are generally flexible and with several connectors and splices that can suffer from this oscillation. In addition, pumps that do not have a “by-pass” system or even count, but with low capacity, can present the famous “pulse”.

PULSATION EFFECT: When we close the tap a little, the flow of the pump being greater than the flow of the tap, causes the piping to fill and pressurize first by locking the pump. While the tap remains open with little flow, the pressure drops in a few moments, causing the pump automatic to restart again, restarting the endless cycle. This “on-off” followed can cause problems or even burn the pump, in addition to compromising the piping mainly in the connections.

BANG EFFECT: In addition to the above events, whenever the pump locks and the tap opens, it will be subjected to the plumbing system, “dry” pressure blows or relief from them and will certainly be felt in the use of taps and showers.

ACCUMULATOR SOLUTIONS: It is on the above effects that the pressure accumulator acts by making it softer or canceling some of them. The device takes on the role of pressure in the system. Prepared for this function is where the pressure peaks will be concentrated. In addition, the pulsation effect will be reduced substantially by increasing the intervals and, in cases of greater flow, canceling such effect. For surges and blows in the system, the accumulator tank will play a role in smoothing these forces, resulting in a smoother system operation.

BENEFITS FOR THE PUMP: For the water pump, it means longer service life, especially in the “automatic” system, which usually causes problems first. The item “consumption” is also benefited. With fewer cycles and peaks in the engine, the pump’s energy consumption will be lower and even the pump’s noise will be lower, meaning more comfort for the occupant. Saving water is also a reality, because with less flow without discomfort, less water will be used.

It is not just a chamber: Many people think that the Shurflo accumulator is just a simple air chamber made of plastic with a different design, prescribing the option of “manufacturing” homemade accumulators using PVC tubes with lids and flanges. They are mistaken. The shurflo accumulators have an internal air bag that can be “inflated” so that the necessary and desired pressure for the closed hydraulic system of the trailer can be regulated. For this reason, the device body also has a much higher pressure resistance capacity than the normal water inlet. In homemade accumulators, levels of improvement of the pump pulsation are achieved, but are regulated by the actual pressure of the water pump.

FEATURES: The equipment is quite simple. Lightweight, it is all made of injected plastic with the 1/2 inch thread connections incorporated. Both the chamber screws and the pressure nozzle are made of stainless steel. It has a hole for fixing in the RV and comes with two protective covers at the outlets.

THE REVIEW: We apply the accumulators to our trailer, which has two separate pumps, one for cold water and the other for hot water. Although they have a bypass system that can dispense with the device for the “pulse” item, it can help with the service in addition to solving other issues. In our case, eliminating the effects of “blows” in the system, in addition to regulating the system when using the “direct water” system. In this case, the camping tap water supplies the trailer without the need for a pump and the accumulators regulate the external pressure in order to equalize it. In normal use of pumps, even with the bypass , the accumulators help to improve the anti-pulsation effects even more.

UNBOXING: The accumulators arrived at our headquarters packed in an illustrated box and very well protected in bubble wrap. The pressure air nozzle comes with a metal cap and the 1/2 inch male threaded connections have a blue plastic cap.

INSTALLATION: The accumulator, despite having two connections (input and output), can be installed in different and free ways, even if using only one of the connections. Always after the pump, it must also be placed before the action of filters or check valves. The positioning of the device is also free, however the factory recommends leaving the pressure loading valve facing upwards. “ Threaded fittings (plastic / nylon only) should be tightened about 1/2 to 1 turn after tightening by hand. Never exceed 6 ft / lbs [88 Nm] of torque on turns.”To make these instructions feasible without the use of technical tools, it pays to use the plastic“ butterfly ”type connections (optional) and tighten them only with the strength that your hands are capable of. In case of leaks, tighten further with the aid of a tool.

PRE-LOAD:The accumulator charge must be carried out with hand pumps. avoiding gas station pumps that can exert pressure above the limit to re-read from there. Bicycle or even electric pumps to inflate a car tire will give pressure slowly. If the pump does not have a pressure gauge, specific external gauges can be used. The correct pressure for the accumulator preload is the same as the reclosure rating of the pressure pump automatic. One example, 45PSI pumps, switch off at this pressure and restart the automatic from 30PSI on the system. It is exactly these 30PSI that should be the pressure in the preload of the device. There are still more technical applications for regulating the preload and composition of systems with readings and suppression of water hammer, but these only with professional devices and tools.

USE / REVIEW:Our test took place with two different scenarios. The first was the application of the accumulator in the old system of our trailer that was served by a single old water pump of 1.1GPM Shurflo that fed both the hot and cold water systems. The second scenario was in the testing environment of 2 Sea-Flo pumps that were the result of a review at MaCamp. In that case, despite being installed in the trailer system, they were not permanently placed and both tested in the same unique hot water system as our trailer. The difference between the two scenarios is that the old 1.1GPM pump does not have any by-pass system, although it already has an automatic (essential function in the pump for the application of an accumulator device). SEA-Flo pumps, in addition to the automatic system, with promised by-pass systems that are nothing more than internal shortcuts that seek exactly to reduce the pump’s pulsating effect. SEA-Flo pumps are different (one with 3 and the other with 5 diaphragms).

SCENE 1:With the Pump in a somewhat “original” form of the trailer, an old 1.1 GPM Shurflo made the connection of the accumulator as simple as possible (one inlet) through a hose that meets the closed water system. Her normal situation without the device is a flow well suited to the trailer, but with the need to always use the tap all open. Any dosage in the handle already starts to pulse quickly. When the tap is turned on, the pump immediately turns on with normal water flow and when it closes, it immediately turns off by locking the water. With the presence of the accumulator and it is properly loaded with internal pressure in the preload, things change. When opening the tap, the pressure coming out of the water is very high, decreasing to the normal flow after a few seconds. When we close the tap, the pump continues to run for a few seconds and “locks” very smoothly where its noise clearly demonstrates that the rotation is decreasing due to the increase in pressure. The pulse rate decreases extremely when we open the tap in a minimum flow of water, turning off and on at much more sparse intervals, and there is not much difference in flow when turned on or off. When the flow of the faucet is higher (but at an intensity that without the accumulator already made the pump pulse), the pump does not even turn off and, consequently, pulsates. being that there is not much difference in flow when turned on or off. When the flow of the faucet is higher (but at an intensity that without the accumulator already made the pump pulse), the pump does not even turn off and, consequently, pulsates. being that there is not much difference in flow when turned on or off. When the flow of the faucet is higher (but at an intensity that without the accumulator already made the pump pulse), the pump does not even turn off and, consequently, pulsates.

SCENARIO 2: In the review we carried out of the SEA-Flo pumps, we also inserted the presence of the accumulator, but in this case without testing the different preloads. We use the preload that comes from the factory that already matches the nominal characteristics of the red pump.

CONCLUSION: In the first scenario where the pump does not have a “bypass” the accumulator proved to be 100% effective and enormously necessary, since it allows the use of less water through the terminals, in addition to preserving the hydraulic set of the trailer. In the second scenario, the internal “bypass” system proved to be dispensable in the “pulsation” category. However, the trailer piping still has this damping system that can come from both the pump and the direct water system, leaving the application of the accumulator to the customer’s preference. In our case, even applying pumps with a “ bypass ”, we still insisted on preserving the use and application of the accumulators in both lines (hot and cold).

CHARACTERISTICS: Maximum Pressure: 125 PSI (8.6 BAR); Volume: 0.620L; Length: 22cm; Diameter: 9.5cm; External material: nylon; Inner bladder material: Butyl; Connection: 1/2 ″ male thread X2.

PRICE: At the time of this review the product was sold for R $ 349.00 at BLUHOME + Shipping.

WHERE TO BUY: At BLUHOME itself , via phone or whatsapp (47) 9.9182-0033 , e-mail ( contato@bluhome.com.br ) or at the PHYSICAL SHOP , Rua das Missões, 1445 – Ponta Aguda – Blumenau – Santa Catarina.

REVIEW – PRODUCT: This equipment was sent by BLUHOME who relied on MaCamp’s know-how to test its products in the Reviews section. Tests were done in our KG-330 trailer in the State of Rio de Janeiro and on trips through the States of SP, SC, PR, RS and RJ.

Categories
Review

Dreiha Ceiling Air Conditioning 12,000BTUs – Sanz Clima

In our tropical country, air conditioning ends up being necessary in most recreational vehicles. With continental dimensions, there are many places and regions where we also have severe winters, where the “hot” function is very welcome when integrated into the device. It was at the Preview Expo Motorhome in Canela last 2019 that we got to know the new company in the Brazilian caravanning industry. Sanz Clima now has a branch in Brazil, made a point of sending its newest model of ceiling air conditioning. MaCamp taking on the challenge has already done the installation by our own hands and now publishes this review with all the details.

SANZ CLIMA: Company founded in Madrid in 1956, won the world through proximity to the customer, with units in Germany, United States, Mexico, Poland, Belgium, Russia and BRAZIL. Pedro Sanz’s family business still preserves the soul of management and innovation in the design of its products. The flagship is for environmental comfort equipment, such as conditioners, heating and water heaters, ranging from bus / truck applications to locomotives and also recreational vehicles.

CEILING AIR CONDITIONING: There are two models offered by the company. Both for ceiling application with designations “DREIHA” 2.5 (8,500 BTUs) and 3.5 (12,000 BTUs). The model we received was the 3.5 model with 12 thousand BTUs of cooling power. The brand differential is given by the modern design both in the aerodynamic external unit and in the internal one. It promises to be quiet, includes an installation kit and asks for a 36cm X 36cm opening in the ceiling. Altogether he weighs 53kg.

WHY CEILING?There are many advantages to using a ceiling air conditioner. The first without a doubt is the fact that we have a device built, designed and developed to be shipped: Withstand road bumps, dust and have the correct ways of fixing the machine on the vehicle. Another advantage is the fact that it does not occupy important spaces in the recreational vehicle, mainly internal cabinets or lower luggage compartments for condensers. Inside, only one panel flush with the ceiling and outside, occupies a small height and a small area that is generally empty. Another advantage is that most models can be “ducted” by hand. With just one machine, you can build ducts through the roof that serve more than one environment. In most cases, a device is installed in the center of the home motor, in the circulation area, where locally it serves the bunk and bathroom. Extended by ducts in the ceiling, they serve the bedroom at the back and the front room.

OUR CASE: In our motor home there was no air conditioning installed originally. In the past, “window” residential models were used, but we chose not to lose the air cabinets. Even with the most recent “Split” models, it would be difficult to find a place for the evaporator that would certainly look “improvised” and poorly located, in addition to the need for two devices, one for the living room and one for the bedroom. The “ceiling” type air conditioning is perfect for us. Ceiling with plenty of space and a single unit located in the center of the circulation that connects the living room, bedroom and bathroom “touches” the entire home engine.

UNBOXING: Well packaged in a huge cardboard box. Air traveled from Rio Grande do Sul to Paraty-RJ by the carrier, but we searched in our own car at the entrance of the city, since a sanitary barrier due to the pandemic did not allow trucks to enter. Inside the package, the device was very well accommodated and fitted in the styrofoam form, which also accommodated the installation parts, manuals (different in four languages) and remote control. The front panel comes in a separate box.

COMPONENTS:The first task was to study all the components that came in the package and then devour the Instruction Manual. A tip we give is never to mount or install anything complex together with reading the manual first. Whenever a new “toy” arrives, we first thresh all the components as if we were going to assemble and install without any manual. Then we put everything away and take the manual to read well away from the device. This prevents us from being carried away by the excitement and starting to assemble it in that wrong and sudden way. Reading the Manual in an unpretentious way we can start to have a perception of what each one of those components are and what care and order we must follow. These are some complete readings to understand everything more accurately. Then we can play soul in the installation. That’s exactly how we did it with Ar da Sanz Clima. It is even worth a note about the manual. Very complete, it came in color printing, which facilitates and makes reading more pleasant.

We separate the external machine, the internal panel, remote control kit and the fixing bars and support of the set. There, nothing too complex, it would be used only in the respective stages of the installation.

In addition, there was a set of screws, intended for fixing the support bars, those with a long thread to fix the external unit to the bars and also those that would fix the panel to the previous complete set.

We also had a set of Styrofoam “buds” with metal flanges and respective joining foams that serve to compose the “duct” that connects the machine’s air outlet to the panel. The number of buds will depend on the thickness of the vehicle’s roof.

Finally, we had a small KIT for thermal insulation and aggregation of electrical harnesses that connect the panel to the machine.

INSTALLATION:We first studied the location of the machine and where the ceiling cutout would be made. Once cut, there is no turning back, so we study the exact position of the outdoor unit in order not to conflict with the other elements of the home engine roof. In our case, the air conditioning was a few centimeters ahead of what we wanted, since the outdoor unit would take the skylight in the room. The chosen place contained an old and native fluorescent lamp that for the reason of the position would not be fully occupied, leaving space for the composition of a new smaller one. Scratched the picture of the opening that followed the measures contained in the manual, we started to tear the inner face of the ceiling and the structure / filling, leaving only the outer face to be cut only in the last hour. That way we could study well and not be surprised by a rain.

After removing the filling and also some structural components of the ceiling, we made all the edges of the same structure to guarantee the rigidity of the ceiling and the base that will be fixed to the air conditioning unit. The conduit of the luminaire fell like a glove so that we can take the 220V line that will supply the conditioner.

Once the entire internal area was resolved, it was time to choose a sunny day, as we did not have coverage for the service. A nice wash in that area of ​​the ceiling before passing the jigsaw on the top so that the entire fence would not encounter problems. Before that, we marked the four ends of the cutout square and then the saw worked. The opening looks very small compared to the size of the entire machine.

It’s time to climb the machine onto the ceiling and position it in the hole. Four pointed elements in the plastic on the bottom face help to position it. At this moment the whole outline of a very noble rubber on the machine’s “belly” is already supported on the ceiling, waiting to be pressed, making a seal so confident that we don’t even think about applying any sealant.

It is time to screw the threaded rods without first going through the support bars that will make the internal and lower anchoring of the ceiling. The head of those long threaded screws has a central “philips” fitting that makes threading work faster. They are long and can be screwed down to the bottom, as they are exactly the ones that adapt to the thickness of the ceiling, which can be a minimum of 30mm and a maximum of 80mm. At the time of “tightening”, the hexagonal shape of the head of the same screw is used to tighten with a spanner or star, pressing the sealing rubber. At this moment, the external unit is already completely fixed to the vehicle and with all the sealing that isolates the hole from rainwater infiltrations outside.

It’s time to prepare the inner panel. First the first Styrofoam section is fixed with the respective metal flange to the machine. After calculating the number of buds according to the thickness of the ceiling, it is time to join them by the self-adhesive foams. Then it is time to separate the panel from the internal module, which for now is only attached by the guide magnets. This internal module is screwed into the support bars, and the lower external panel is hung by the control, power and sensor harnesses.

The next step is to connect the harnesses through the different connectors that do not make mistakes in the connections. As these wires and connectors will be in a place that will be highly cooled and endowed with moisture, it is necessary to join them separately with the self-adhesive foams that come with the product. After them, the whole set is thermally insulated by an aluminized blanket and secured with plastic clamps.

Finally, what seemed the simplest remained, but it was more difficult in our case. Attach the outer panel to the inner module. It is necessary to detach the filtering system from the side air intakes of the panel to have access to the place that screws this panel to the support bars on the ceiling. As our space was minimal, we had difficulty finding a tiny Philips key to be able to see and tighten the four screws on the panel. The guide magnets help to keep the panel in place on the internal module in place. With a little dexterity and patience we managed to arrest the four. Mission accomplished, we just needed to replace the filter and grid.

Last step was to connect the 220V power and put the toy to work.

WARNING: A representation photo contained in Sanz Clima advertising can confuse the installer and cause problems after cutting the ceiling. This is because the photo shows the internal panel attached to the external unit exactly below the frame, which does not happen. In fact, the wind duct is not centered on the panel and so it is further ahead of the projection of the external unit. And this is what made the skylight in the room not leave our panel in exactly the position we wanted. By studying, we were able to identify this issue, avoiding mistakes. We tried, but it is not possible to reverse the direction of the panel, as there are fittings that limit this installation.

In a rough but informative montage, we more or less represent the real condition of the “marriage” of the projections of both elements (internal and external).

FUNCTIONING: One of the biggest surprises we had was the item “noise”. Although the manufacturer promises low noise on his device, we expected an unusual noise coming from this type of device. But it surprised us. The noise is really low, with the sound of the compressor very soft and the maximum level of ventilation with very acceptable intensity. At lower speeds, you can not even hear the fan noise even close up. The remote control controls almost everything. It even has many more functions than on the device panel itself, which already allows access to the main controls.

PANEL: The front panel of DREIHA is all in white and with a very modern and “clean” design. The digital display only appears when lit, in large numbers and easy to see. The six control buttons on the panel fulfill the basic functions that do not require the remote control. From left to right we have: 1- “MODE”, which selects the five available modes – Automatic, Cold, Hot, Dehumidifier and Fan; 2- “VENTILATION INTENSITY”, it is used to regulate the fan in the modes – Low, medium, high and the Turbo function; 3 and 4- “+ and -“, regulates the temperature intensities on the display between 16ºC and 30ºC; 5- “LIGHT”, turns on or off the ambient light embedded in the panel; 6- “ON / OFF”, Turns the device on and off.

Just above the digital buttons mentioned, there is the numeric display and four more signal icons: 1- “ON”; 2- Filter cleaning alert; 3- Cold mode indication (Refrigerated); 4- Hot mode indication (heater). The remote control sensor is right next to the signaling LEDs.

REMOTE CONTROL:The control is very complete and has a display that takes even more information than the air conditioning panel itself. It comes with the batteries so you don’t have to run after it and a wall mount with screws. Its 4.5cm X 12cm has 14 buttons that serve the entire range of the brand’s products and therefore some of them may have no function. Buttons: “ON / OFF”, Turns the device on and off; “MODE”, toggles between the available modes – Automatic, Cold. Hot, Dehumidifier and Fan; “-” and “+”, regulates the temperature intensities between 16ºC and 30ºC; “FAN”, Regulates the fan speed in the modes – Low, medium and high; “SWING”, would regulate the position of the wind direction fins, which in the case of DREIHA are manual and therefore have no function; “CLOCK”, sets the clock; “LED”, turns the panel’s ambient light on or off; “TIMER ON”, sets the predetermined activation at the desired time; “TEMP”, Toggles the panel temperature display at the programmed temperatures and in the indoor and outdoor environments (In our case it only reports the actual internal temperature, but not the external one); “TIMMER OFF”, Sets the exact time you want to turn off the device yourself; “TURBO”, selects the maximum performance mode from both cold and hot modes; “SLEEP”, automatic night off function; “LIGHT”, turns the lights on the panel buttons on and off and especially the display in case it disturbs sleep. In this case, this last key glows in the dark to facilitate its “blind” use. Toggles the panel temperature display at the programmed temperatures and in the indoor and outdoor environments (In our case it only reports the actual internal temperature, but not the external one); “TIMMER OFF”, Sets the exact time you want to turn off the device yourself; “TURBO”, selects the maximum performance mode from both cold and hot modes; “SLEEP”, automatic night off function; “LIGHT”, turns on or off the lights of the panel buttons and mainly the display in case of disturbing sleep. In this case, this last key glows in the dark to facilitate its “blind” use. Toggles the panel temperature display at the programmed temperatures and in the indoor and outdoor environments (In our case it only reports the actual internal temperature, but not the external one); “TIMMER OFF”, Sets the exact time you want to turn off the device yourself; “TURBO”, selects the maximum performance mode from both cold and hot modes; “SLEEP”, automatic night off function; “LIGHT”, turns on or off the lights of the panel buttons and mainly the display in case of disturbing sleep. In this case, this last key glows in the dark to facilitate its “blind” use. automatic night off function; “LIGHT”, turns the lights on the panel buttons on and off and especially the display in case it disturbs sleep. In this case, this last key glows in the dark to facilitate its “blind” use. automatic night off function; “LIGHT”, turns on or off the lights of the panel buttons and mainly the display in case of disturbing sleep. In this case, this last key glows in the dark to facilitate its “blind” use.

LIGHT: The Air Conditioning panel has a very modern design with “touch” buttons and hidden lighting that only appears when lit. The LED that emanates a light in a bluish-white circular shape does not offer full illumination, but it is great for creating a dim light of circulation that serves as a night guide or simply decorative. It can be operated from either the remote control or the panel and regardless of whether the air is on or off. In short, her lighting is very nice, but don’t count on her to light up your room as the main source of light.

COLD FUNCTION: The DREIHA ceiling air conditioner has a rotary compressor system that cools the air in a circulation system. It takes the warm air from above and returns it chilled to the environment. The fan function complements your performance and can be chosen to taste. For our 6.90m X 2.30m home engine it served perfectly, leaving only the part of the cabin without its comfort on hot sunny days (the furthest environment from the machine and all glass)

HOT FUNCTION:A great advantage of Sanz Clima’s air is the so-called “heat pump”. Some brands of ceiling air conditioners use electrical resistances combined with the fan to perform this function, which requires greater energy consumption and lower efficiency, in addition to drying out the air too much. In the case of DREIHA it has a reversing valve that reverses the cooling direction of the system, heating the evaporator and cooling the condenser. It must be said that both split-type hi-wall and ceiling conditioners are not the most suitable for use in hot mode, since they disarm more often due to the rising hot air. It is for this reason that North Americans and Europeans do not use this type of heating. However, in our tropical country, the hot option of ceiling air breaks the branch well in cold weather opportunities, dispensing a heating system.

VENTILATION FUNCTION: The device responsible for distributing the cooled or hot air can also be used as a fan, circulating the air and bringing mild comfort. There are three wind intensities to choose from.

DEHUMIDIFYING FUNCTION : The less talked about function of air conditioners is perhaps even MORE IMPORTANT in RECREATION VEHICLES than at home. This is because this mode performs the function of removing moisture from the place, “turbinating” that effect in which water is formed by the drain hose. Whenever the refrigerated air is turned on, it is common to see the drain pouring water. The ice formed by the humidity of the air accumulated in the evaporator, condenses and this water is expelled. This “DRY” function works for this withdrawal. It is very prudent especially in trailers and motor homes that we do dehumidification, since they have a lot of wood and fabric, causing mold and mildew. This function may not always be comfortable when you are inside, and this treatment is more suitable when the vehicle is empty.

AIR OUTLETS: These are the air diffusers at the ends (front and rear of the vehicle’s direction). The wind direction fins are manually adjustable and independent on the DREIHA. The remote control has a “swing” button that would regulate their position or trigger the random function, but it has no effect on these ceiling air models. (The remote control, according to the manufacturer, serves several models of the brand). We do not feel the need for this function at a distance, even because in the “manual” mode we have the option to adjust each one in a different way.

AIR OUTLETS AND FILTERS: The air intake to be cooled (or heated) is through the side flaps of the panel. There are two grids that are easily removed by a “click” system and that release the WASHABLE filters. We used it for 30 days, half during dusty renovation services and half at the normal pace and the situation of the filters was as shown below. Washed in the sink with water and neutral detergent left them as new. The device has a filter cleaning alert that lights up on the inner panel. The light activates after adding 250 hours of fan operation. After cleaning the signal is still on, just press the “+” button for 5 seconds.

EXTERNAL VOLUME: As it has a flat compressor, the external height of the machine is very small for this type of equipment. For those who have height limiters such as access gates or even porticos of places that they usually visit, follow the dimensions that resulted in our roof. The owner should carry out a new measurement of the total height of the vehicle in order to be able to evaluate the entrance in the places that have this parking restriction information. Height from the ceiling: 26cm; Total width occupied on the ceiling: 71.5cm; Total length: 1.02m.

DRAIN: Like the other ceiling air conditioners, condensed water is dispensed right there by the drain, as the vehicle’s roof is prepared to receive rain. That is why each trailer or motor home will have a different “path” for it to run. This will also depend on his leveling at each stop. There are two drain points in the DREIHA: On the two sides ahead.

ERROR CODES:Some operating errors have the causes reported on the air conditioning panel display and this can help a lot in troubleshooting. The main one in the case of Brazilian caravanning is represented by the acronym “PL”. It means that the electrical network is below 184V and the compressor has entered safe mode. Sometimes the peak of the start can cause this mode to enter even with the voltage (at rest) above 185V. Another code that can be frequent in some regions is “H1”, where the defrost function had to enter temporarily while eliminating the condenser freeze. This will happen more in cold weather when using the device in hot mode. The codes H3, E8, F0. F1, F2, F3, F4 and JF did not have their causes revealed to the lay public, being in charge of specialized technicians, “H3” and “E8” can possibly be eliminated by restarting the device. In our case, we only saw the error “PL”.

CLEANING THE FILTERS: Simple to use, just press the two sides of the air intake grilles to remove them. Inside is the filter that can be washed under running water and mild soap. In our case, we hadn’t even lit the cleaning alert on the panel and the filter was already in this situation. Because it is small and easy to access and work, it is worth cleaning it more often.

MAINTENANCE IN THE EXTERNAL UNIT:Although the maintenance time has not passed, we opened the external unit as instructed by the manual. The manufacturer recommends this inspection twice a year, but we did it a month after installation to illustrate this review. The external cover for DREIHA must be removed using the two rear screws and the eight plastic plugs. To remove them, just push the core inwards to release the “head”. The air conditioning kit comes with several spare bushings, which may be necessary. Even taking care, we broke two of them. The maintenance opening is due to the need to clean the condenser unit, that grid identical to the car radiator. During cold operation it is responsible for dissipating the heat removed from inside. It heats up and the air must be blown for this heat exchange with the atmosphere. It happens that with a long time of use, dust and other elements that obstruct the air passage and make the cooling or heating system less efficient there. In our case, as we only used one month, the condenser was clean. Otherwise, it must be washed very carefully so that water does not spill on the other components and it only drains through the drain pan. Soap or neutral detergent can help with the service.

CONCLUSION: All expectations were met. The Motor home now has air conditioning that touches all environments and no “taken” space. It is important to repeat that the low noise level was surprising for this type of product and during this first month of use the operation was perfect. Even the hot function could be tested, given some very cold nights this May.

CHARACTERISTICS (Dreiha 3.5): Cooling capacity: 3,500w; Heating capacity: 3,200w; Voltage: 220V-240V; Frequency: 50Hz; Phases: single-phase; Consumption power: Cold 1.270we hot 1.180w; Nominal power: 1,400w; Operating current: Cold 5.6A and hot 5.2A; Noise: Internal 49 to 65 db (A) external 65 to 75 db (A); Dehumidification capacity: 1.5L / h; Protection: IPX4; Opening in the ceiling: 35.6 cm X 35.6 cm; Ceiling thickness variation: from 3cm to 8cm; Refrigerant gas: R410A w / 670g; GWP potential: 2088; Dimensions External unit: Length 1.02m x width 71.5cm x height 26cm; Panel dimensions: Length 61cm x width 48cm x height 5cm; Total weight: 53kg.

PRICE: The SANZ CLIMATE not directly sell to end consumers. At the time of this review, the product was sold for R $ 10,760.00 on MY TRAILER + Shipping.

WHERE TO BUY: At the MY TRAILER store or other online and physical stores across Brazil.

REVIEW – PRODUCT: This equipment was sent by SANZ CLIMA, which relied on MaCamp’s know-how to test its products in the Reviews section. Tests were carried out on our Turiscar Caribe 1992 home engine in the state of Rio de Janeiro.

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Review

Air Cooler Series 7i

This Review belongs to the REVIEWS MaCamp 2020 series – Upgrade Motor Home. Our partner RESFRI AR made sure to send its most modern air conditioner model that coincidentally best suits the recreational vehicle market in Brazil. It is a device that guarantees internal ventilation with 12V (or 24V) power and uses water from its own tank to moisten the air and lower the vehicle’s internal temperature. Among several advantages of the air conditioner, is the fact that you can refresh the environment for a long period of time (usually a good night’s sleep) with only the battery power of the vehicle and without relying on an external 110V or 220V network. Far from being an air conditioner, it is also far from being expensive when it comes to energy. Extremely economical, it works for our energy independence.

Commonly used in cabins of trucks and closed cars, such as armored / strong cars, they guarantee the freshness of the interior with both the vehicle in motion and parked. Motor homes are highly sought after to ensure comfort on nights when they stay overnight without the support of external electric light. Thus, only with battery charge it is possible to keep it on for many hours.

FUNCTIONING: The idea is quite simple. The air is captured outside and ventilated inside, not without first passing through a material moistened with water. This moisture load in the atmosphere will be able to lower the temperature of the environment a little, but it is the thermal sensation that will do most of the work. In general, air conditioners use straw as a material to be moistened. Water can be stored in two ways: in an external tank – distant and with greater capacity – or with an internal tank – incorporated and with less capacity. The latter is the case with the S7i.

THE AIR FRESH AIR S7i: The most modern model of the company has its main highlight for the minimum height of the device externally. With only 14cm above the ceiling, the air conditioner houses a 12L internal water tank that, together with the low water consumption of the S7i, can last from 15 to 60 hours depending on the conditions of the place. There are 12V or 24V versions and you can count optional remote control on the native control panel on the ceiling. To facilitate water replenishment, the device has a set of hoses that descend from the ceiling to a double connector. There, just connect a water hose and when the tank is full, the water will return through the other outlet.

INSTALLING: The air conditioner was developed to be adapted in the common skylights in truck cabins and for this reason it is often also installed in these openings of trailers and motor homes. So they do not require cutouts on the ceiling. The bedroom of our motor home has this skylight, but we don’t particularly want to give up this device that we think is essential. So we installed the product making a new cutout on the ceiling, this time in the exact shape of the air conditioner and right on the bed.

Firstly, we used the internal finishing flange of the panel to draw a mold of the ceiling cutout on the cardboard itself. To choose the exact location, in addition to taking into account the home engine structure issues, we must also think about the external and internal dimensions of the device so that it does not conflict with other elements of the vehicle. In our case, the skylight of the room dictated the position of the cutout on the spot. Once set, it’s time to put the tools and courage into practice.

We drilled four holes at the ends and removed only the underside (internal) and the “filling” from the ceiling, leaving the outer plate intact in case our service takes a long time or a rain falls. With the entire internal part already cut out, we could calmly choose where we would go through the wiring. We used the conduit of the old lamp to pass the 12V power supply to the Climatizador.

As the original wiring goes down externally next to the refueling hoses, but we would feed it from the existing conduit, we deviated the harness, making a small hole in the base of the air conditioner in a place where it would already be protected by the sealing system. After diverted, we caulk with PU for total caulking.

From the internal “tear”, we positioned the cardboard mold with three triangulated holes so that, once these holes were positioned in the “shell” of the vehicle, we could mark the edge in the same position for the cutout with the jigsaw.

After the edge is scratched, we start two holes to position the saw and start the cut itself.

After enjoying the new “sunroof” of the room, it was time to install the device in the “hole”.

After the main cutout, we positioned the device on it to support the four fixing screws. so we were able to mark exactly the respective holes that will be the key to pressing the air conditioner on the ceiling.

After gluing the rubber that will seal the device by compression to the ceiling, we made a reinforcement of PU application, even if not requested by the manufacturer.

Now it remained to tighten the screws that hold the device to the brackets that accompany the product and the installation would be near the end. There are two rulers that come with the air conditioner to serve as bars that support the interior ceiling and press the set. As our roof is “thick”, we chose to pass the ruler inside the “sandwich”.

Finally, after connecting the 12V harness to the motor power supply, it was enough to screw the finishing flange that complements the air conditioner and covers all the cutouts, burrs, holes, screws and ceiling wiring. We cannot say that “calling” was the first thing we did after completing the installation, because we had already tried it before it was even finished. The fresh air was still accompanied by that “new appliance smell”.

USING:The use of the air conditioner is immensely simple. The remote control is even easier to operate. Simply connect via the speed “+” button and choose the desired intensity. The air vents are extremely practical with four of them offering a 360 degree turn, in addition to full rotation and independent closing option. In the case of the home engine, we choose right on the bed, with an outlet for each one, both in the head and legs. The thermal comfort that the air conditioner gives is very pleasant and really refreshes considerably, especially when you stay in the room for a while. So much so that on many nights we opted for just ventilation without humidification. The minimum speed sound is almost imperceptible and is great for keeping the room ventilated,

SLEEP FUNCTION: For people like us who go to sleep with “that heat” and in the middle of the night it gets “that cold”, the SLEEP function saves. When activating the air conditioner, the key that is represented by the propeller with a clock is pressed. The LED indicator for the SLEEP function will flash once indicating that the time is set to one hour when the device will be turned off. With each new press of that button, the time will be increased from 2 to 5 blinks, indicating this same number of hours in the shutdown function. After the 5 hour adjustment, if it is pressed again, the indicator LED will remain on showing that the function is off and the engine will remain on. Whenever the engine is turned off, the Sleep function will be disabled.

NOISE: The air conditioner can be considered either ultra quiet or noisy. This is because it has different levels of ventilation intensity and certainly at most it makes a lot of noise. However, we only activate the maximum when we need to fight against excessive heat, usually when we connect with the very hot environment. At this moment, noise is the least important. Already in common use, we have not passed the third level of ventilation, these are very smooth. Much softer than 12V fans and quite similar to home fans. When the straw moistening system is activated, it is possible to hear the noise of the water pump – which takes no more than 5 seconds.

INTERNAL PANEL / LIGHTING:The inner panel has backlit buttons. The red light of especially soft intensity, ensures visibility of the functions and simply does not disturb anything in sleep. Word from those who even bother with that TV stand-by LED. We have all the functions on the internal panel. The air conditioner is switched on using the “+” (8) speed setting and switched off using the “-” (7). We still have the timer activation button (6) in case we fall asleep and do not want the device to remain on for the rest of the night. Finally, we have the button (5) that turns the ventilation humidification function on or off. In addition to the command buttons, we have LEDs indicating the lack of water in the tank (2), the activated or not function of humidification (air conditioning) (3), Moment of water injection in the straw (3 flashes) and also the SLEEP function ( 4).

CLIMATIZATION OR VENTILATION: We can choose whether we want the function of humidification of ventilation with water for air conditioning. However, if you only want dry ventilation (just like a regular fan), just disable the “water” function using the first key, represented by just one drop. The function will be signaled triggered or not by the LED also represented by the single drop. The air conditioning function occurs when the pump is activated from time to time and its noise will be heard. Whenever it is working, the single drop LED will flash. Whenever the air conditioner is switched on again, the water function is active again, requiring you to turn it off if desired.

WATER – FUNCTION AND FUNCTIONS: When the internal tank is filled, the sensor indicates through the LED with the symbol of several drops on. When water is missing, this LED flashes indicating the need for refueling.

WATER RECHARGE:As it has an internal tank, the air conditioner has a “whip” equipped with its hoses that are found in a plastic tip with rubberized caps. They serve for one to fill the tank and the other to serve as a return (thief) after full. The set measures 2.5m and can be either distributed over the roof and outer side wall of the trailer or home engine or, in the case of a designed vehicle, passed through internal ducts with a direct connection to the RV water system. In our case, we opted for a third way. We leave the whip placed right next to the skylight in the bathroom stall with a slack in the hose so that we can pull it in at the time of refueling. This way, when the water in the tank runs out, we can supply it immediately or in the next bath so that we will not need to leave the vehicle or have an external hose. Even if there is no water in the place, we can use the water from the home motor box pressurized by the pump, just by pulling the harness through the skylight and filling it with the shower hose. In our case, we made a small adapter that we threaded in place of the shower and quickly connected to the hose of the Resfri Ar.

REMOTE CONTROL: The Control is very small and practical. It is important to say that it is an OPTIONAL item and does not come with the air conditioner and must be purchased separately. With intuitive buttons, six of them have function in the S7i, out of the total eight. Following the numbering in the photo below, we have the “on / increase speed” button (8); “Off / on” (7); “Air conditioning / humidifying function or just ventilation” (5); “Sleep function” (6) and finally the key (9) that has an exclusive function of the remote control, which turns the engine on and off at the last set speed. Measures only 8.5cm X 4cm. It comes with a velcro glued on the back, with the outside already with double-sided tape to stick to the location of your choice.

INTERNAL LIGHTING: The internal lighting incorporated in the device is optional in this model. This was not the case for our device, as recreational vehicles always have native direct and indirect lighting, which makes this make no difference. In our case we have a main luminaire and two more indirect lighting in the room, dispensing with lighting in the air conditioner. This function is available on the remote control because it serves all models of the brand with or without options, but it has no effect on our S7i.

EXTERNAL LIGHTING: Some models of Resfri Ar air conditioners have an illumination on the external housing, simulating a signaling from the roof of the truck cabin. The S7i doesn’t have this light and it wouldn’t even make much sense, as the model is extremely low. In the use of motor homes and trailers, this becomes even more unnecessary, and even this lighting can be activated without knowing it, using battery for nothing. This function also exists on the remote control that serves all models of the brand, but with no effect on what we tested.

Positive pressure: One of the advantages of using the air conditioner in motion in both trailers and motor homes is the positive pressure that the device produces when the vehicle is completely closed. As it drives the air from the outside in, it tends to escape through the cracks and ventilation common in RVs, preventing the entry of dust from the road. Especially when taking dirt roads, keeping the air conditioner on with the vehicle all closed can prevent dust from entering, as well as smoke odors for example.

PRE-PAINTING: The Climatizador comes in white color that already matches any vehicle and accompanies the RESFRI AR sticker separately, because if the owner chooses to paint it in pain with the car, he can stick the manufacturer’s logo on top.

FEATURES: Dimensions: 64cm (L) X 88cm (W) X 14cm (H); Empty Weight: 16kg; Water capacity: 12L; Water consumption per hour: from 200 to 800ml; Water autonomy: 15 to 60h; Engine type: Double turbine without resistance; Voltage: 12V (also has a 24V model); Maximum Rated Current: 10A; Minimum consumption: 0.15Ah; Average consumption: 3.4Ah; Maximum consumption: 10Ah; Air flow: 400m³ / h.

PRICE: At the time of this review the product was sold on the internet from R $ 999.00 + Shipping to R $ 1,200.00 + Shipping.

WHERE TO BUY: In the countless physical and virtual stores that represent RESFRI AR products and that can also be searched on the official website system: WHERE TO BUY…

REVIEW – PRODUCT: This equipment was sent by RESFRI AR, which relied on MaCamp’s know-how to test its products in the Reviews section. Tests were done on our Motor Home Turiscar Caribe in the State of Rio de Janeiro.

Categories
Review

Inversor Usina 1500W

We have long been looking for an inverter model to test in the MaCamp reviews section. However, the great difficulty was due to the lack of national models and great uncertainty due to the disparity in the price and quality of major international brands and the famous “ching ling”. Here comes one of the most famous national charger brands with a new model of inverter. The PLANT / SPARK made sure to send us two of its models of greater power capacity, with 110V and 220V with another. We took the opportunity to apply a new concept of use in the trailer. Did it work?

INVERTER: An inverter is basically a “reverse charger”. It transforms the direct current (dC) of the car battery into alternating current (aC) 110V or 220V for the use of equipment and appliances commonly used at home. In the caravaning and overlander modality they are extremely important to use when traveling, devices that are not able to work on the 12V battery.

12V UNIVERSE: In countries whose caravan market is vast, many devices are already available for use in the car or truck battery. There are TV’s, fountains, lighting, electronics and even appliances like refrigerators, coffee makers and even microwaves. In Brazil, not all of these items are found in the DC version, and when available they are very expensive, leading the camper to use the traditional 110V / 220V equipment with inverter.

ECONOMY: It is very common to see comments from campers who argue that an inverter is much more viable than 12V equipment. They justify that, in addition to the high price of the equipment, it will be even more difficult to obtain spare parts or technical assistance on the road. However, for those who are running, “consumption” is essential, since the energy of the batteries is limited and any savings in their consumption will be important. Inverters are energy transformers and lose a lot of it in the process, dissipating this majority in the form of heat. The savings in this case can be 40% to 60% in the case of equipment already at 12V, in addition to being more prepared for “on-board” use than some traditional residential ones.

INVERTER DOES NOT WORK MIRACLE:The biggest mistake made by the public in relation to the inverter is to think that it works miracles. That everything can be connected to it and that the car or trailer battery will “play” all the devices. Unfortunately not. The Inverter transforms a few 12V (or 24V) into many 110V (or 220V). This means that the current in Amperes that will be drawn from the battery will be huge, making the consumption of it also huge. Therefore, in your installation everything needs to be properly calculated. And even if it is technically possible with a lot of technology, number of batteries and nominally new, in practice forget the use of electric showers, toasters and other equipment that draw a lot of current. For the case of Air Conditioning, think about using it only with the car’s engine running, as it’s stopped, the battery doesn’t last long, will wear out quickly and shorten its life. Calm down that we will detail all of this.

WHY HAVE INVERTER: But if we have all the equipment on 12V and the inverter uses more energy, why have it? Firstly, it is always good to have the security of obtaining 110V or 220V in the middle of nowhere for any eventuality. Second, because we will never have all the equipment available in 12V. Thirdly, for the case of using devices on a non-continuous basis, the use of the traditional may be more viable. An example? If you make a point of using a blender for breakfast, consumption for a minute or two will not make much difference. Therefore, it will not be necessary for you to import a device in the 12V version. Unlike a TV for example. This is on for many hours and then it is worth opting for a 12V.

FRIDGE:The refrigerator is one of the most controversial pieces of equipment in this discussion, and is one of the greatest examples of savings. Residential refrigerators connected to the inverter have a much lower cost than those equipped with 12V compressors. However, in addition to not being prepared for the road bumps, the set uses much more energy when we are talking about equipment that is on 24 hours a day. 12V refrigerators have compressors designed for use on the move. They consume up to 50% less battery power and if they are manufactured for the modality they still have extra facilities for those who own a house on wheels, such as automatic door locking systems, defrost drains, shelves with front fencing and locking systems. door ventilation when turned off. In short, it is indisputable that it is cheaper to buy a home refrigerator and connect it to an inverter. However, trapped by the economy and rational use of energy, you will certainly choose 12V equipment.

THE PLANT INVERTER: There are twelve versions offered by the brand. The three powers, 500W, 1000W and 1500W can be offered in 12V or 24V and all can drop either 110V or 220V at the output. They offer stabilized output of pure sine wave controlled by microprocessor and all manufactured in Brazil.

PURE SENOIDAL WAVE:This is the most important feature in an inverter. The alternating current (aC) that exists in the home outlet has a frequency represented in a waveform (sine wave). It goes back and forth on the conductor (wire). It happens that inverters can produce currents at the output in some different ways. The most common are the “modified sine wave”, “square wave” or the semi-sine wave. These demand simpler and cheaper devices and make no difference in the operation of different types of equipment. It turns out that the wave does not equal the network, that is, “pure sine wave”, ends up harming some other types, and many other devices will not even work. The life of the inverter itself may be shorter because it offers a square wave and it is consumed by ordinary devices. THE PLANT INVERTER has the type of “pure sine wave”, which is identical to the perfect alternating current and will have more quality, long life of the inverter and the devices connected to it and also a perfect clock of the equipment that requires the frequency (60Hz) to work correctly. The characteristics of the inverter of this review are: Output: stabilized; Double stabilization: the electronic circuit works both the stabilization of the 12V input together with the variation of the output so that the final result is always the 120V or the 220V promised in the socket.

VA COEFFICIENTS (Volts X Ampere): All transformation equipment, works nominally in powers in Watts (w), but must always be applied in (VA) according to the type of equipment to be connected. This applies to transformers, stabilizers, chargers, converters and also inverters. Devices with resistive loads (heaters, dryers, toasters, sandwich makers, electric pans and the like) can be applied by rated power, that is, the same total 1,500W of the inverter in this review. If inductive or capacitive loads are applied, such as electronic equipment or using motors for example, the coefficient 0.8 must be applied. So to start the refrigerator, we must consider that the maximum consumption of this inverter will be (0.8 x 1.500W) = 1,200W. Pico’s power will be (0.8 x 2.250W) = 1.800W.

UNBOXING: The inverter comes in an illustrated box with all the visual treatment of the brand and information. The well-printed instruction manual contains a lot of information on its 14 pages, with the last 12 months warranty term.

COMMON USE ON THE TRAILER: We apply the Plant’s inverter in the common method in our trailer. We install the 12V model => 120Vbecause we have a 12V stationary battery and our internal system is all 110V. In this installation we leave out the air conditioning circuit (which we will see in a specific paragraph). We made the connection in a practical and easy way, since we have all the electrical components gathered in one compartment. We use 8mm² (4mm + 4mm) cables on each pole, as we will not use any powerful equipment there. We will only use notebook chargers, camera battery and some low power appliance as a mixer for example, which does not exceed 200w. Ideally, the inverter should be as close to the battery as possible and with the appropriate cable. Although technically permitted, in the modality we adopt a limit of 1 meter at most the distance from the inverter to the trailer battery, because the greater the cable distance, greater its resistance and power loss. At the inverter output, we connect the power supply to the trailer sockets. As we commonly use a full range stabilizer that distributes its 110V output to all outlets in the trailer except the air conditioner, we just connect this to the inverter for this use. Remember that our use of the inverter is completely casual. Otherwise it would not be wise to connect the stabilizer between the inverter and the device, in addition to this model being indicated for use with 35mm cable. This stabilization is not necessary, as the plant already controls the output voltage within the maximum rated power. we just connect this to the inverter for this use. Remember that our use of the inverter is completely casual. Otherwise it would not be wise to connect the stabilizer between the inverter and the device, in addition to this model being indicated for use with 35mm cable. This stabilization is not necessary, as the plant already controls the output voltage within the maximum rated power. we just connect this to the inverter for this use. Remember that our use of the inverter is completely casual. Otherwise it would not be wise to connect the stabilizer between the inverter and the device, in addition to this model being indicated for use with 35mm cable. This stabilization is not necessary, as the plant already controls the output voltage within the maximum rated power.

TRADITIONAL APPLICATION: Our intention in using the INVERTER would be to try a new modality in the CAR + TRAILER list that can also be applied in the list of motorhomes batteries. Commonly we have inverters equipping the trailer that is attached to the car and being served by the 12V energy of the alternator that at the same time that charges the battery of the trailer, feeds the inverter that keeps the refrigerator on.

PROBLEMS IN THIS CONFIGURATION: When we have the inverter many meters away from the alternator and the car battery, the tendency is to drop the voltage a lot at the end, thus increasing the current required. The problem is that for a 1,500W inverter, it would take more than 35mm of power cable, which is not feasible. Even worse, because it will be necessary in the middle of this path a PLUG for quick connection of this circuit where the car will be coupled with the trailer. In addition, this cable is commonly used to charge the trailer battery and there are two problems: 1- The voltage of the 14.4V that leaves the alternator will arrive much less at the trailer battery; 2- The voltage regulator of the car will never know the real situation of the batteries, ending up sending a charge to the one that is already charged. For those who use the inverter with the trailer stopped,

Trailer KG-330 + PAjero towing

NEW CASE STUDY:Our intention in using the INVERTER would be to try a new modality in the CAR + TRAILER list that can also be applied in the list of motorhomes batteries. Commonly we have the inverters equipping the trailer that is attached to the car and being served by the 12V energy of the alternator that at the same time that charges the battery of the trailer, feeds the inverter that keeps the refrigerator on. Our goal will be to install the NO CAR CAR inverter instead of the trailer. In this way, the inverter may be closer to the alternator and vehicle battery. A pair of much thinner wires (1.5mm²) will come out of it to feed the trailer as if it were plugged into the camping outlet. Thus, in addition to the refrigerator being powered by a much more viable and malleable wiring, our stationary battery from the trailer will be properly charged by the SMART CHARGER. This way the battery is not at risk of being discharged by the refrigerator or the car, being 100% charged on arrival and the smart charger will play its role of keeping the charge afloat by protecting it.

For this, we just need to install a 220V cable in the hitch, which doesn’t even have to be the traditional one, but we chose it to use the inverter in the car even at times when we are not camping. Thus, we always have a 220V socket for tools wherever we are, simply by activating the inverter.

The inverter was installed in the trunk of our car. We could install it there in the engine safe, next to the battery, but we chose at first to leave it in a place totally isolated from dust and moisture. So, we run a positive 12V cable and fix the negative to the car’s chassis. From there comes a 2.5mm² cable plugged into the inverter until it engages with 220V on the 10A plug.

THE TESTS: So we went on a trip leaving the State of Rio de Janeiro, passing through SP and PR until staying overnight at a post in SC. From there we left the next day bound for RS, arriving at Serra Gaúcha at night. Throughout the journey, we arrived with the battery 100% charged and preserved without major concerns. In the itinerary entitled to overnight stay with bath and dinner, the alternator charge was sufficient to supply the few moments of stopping. In our case, only battery charge was necessary, since our refrigerator is quadrivolt. But while the inverter was feeding the trailer, it also directly powered the refrigerator at 220V.

In the second stage, we were able to test what we wanted. We spent 3 days camping at the edge of the canyons of São José dos Ausentes-RS, in a place without water or light. For the time being we don’t have solar panels in the trailer and our only 70A battery was our power source for the trailer in this period. But how to keep the battery charged in a rational way and without the stress that does not match the location? Simple. Our usual 40-meter extension allowed the car to stay this far. Without listening to the engine idling, he spent about 2 hours a day charging the trailer battery in a controlled manner with minimal fuel consumption. Certainly any gasoline generator would spend much more liters of fuel per hour than the idling car used. It would certainly also make a lot more noise. Not to mention the space that would occupy the device and the need to load fuel. Other than the chances of failing. Therefore, our application of the inverter in the car, was understood as the composition of a “generator” much more economical, quiet and practical.

AIR CONDITIONING:We leave the application of air conditioning to a separate case. From the beginning, our intention with the inverter was that, in addition to the intelligent load and the “pseudo” generator formed with the car’s engine, it would be possible to use the air conditioning in the trailer with the car’s engine running. Yeah, you don’t travel inside the trailer on the road. But it is common that when we stop at gas stations for lunch, instead of eating in the restaurant lounge, we buy the food for “travel” and eat in the trailer. That way, we have a moment of peace, rest, cleanliness and we can still have a quick rest before resuming driving. Sometimes the strong sun ends up making it very hot and instead of using a generator for these very few moments, we could just keep the engine running at idle to turn on the air conditioning in the trailer. This option is still valid, but unfortunately the inverter did not touch our air conditioner. It is a Split model with a rotary compressor (not inverter) of 7,500BTUs with a starting peak much greater than the “peak” of the inverter. Exactly. Although the PLANT INVERTER has 1,500W of power, it allows devices that “pull” more than that for a few milliseconds to be connected. The so-called “starting peak” is more frequent in devices that use an engine. From rest to normal rotation, this acceleration requires a much greater current until it is stabilized. In the case of the USINA, it has a “peak power” of 2,250W, which is quite sufficient for most devices. However, a common air conditioning compressor can pull at the “starting peak” from 6 to 10 times its rated power. Thus, our Air that pulls 750W nominally after starting, may require from 4,500W to 7,500W. In our tests, unfortunately the inverter went into safe mode to avoid burning it, leaving our plan for air conditioning in suspension.

CONCLUSION: We were extremely satisfied with the Spark Usina Inverter. Although we were not successful with our intention of air conditioning, we understand that the limitation is due to our device and not the choice or quality of the inverter. Our main need was met both in terms of charging the battery of the trailer and feeding it on the trip through a simple and safe 220V connection on the hitch, as well as “equipping” the car with a plug always on hand for the most varied needs everyday life even when not traveling. The reliability of the brand brings us security and the customer service of the technical area via whatsapp has always been present and effective. She even took many questions for this review.

PROTECTIONS: The inverter has several protections in its electronic system. This avoids burning a device that is usually very expensive, as well as protecting the battery and the equipment connected to it. Whenever it enters safe mode, it alerts such a state of suspension by an audible alarm and on its LEDs. LOW AND HIGH INPUT VOLTAGE: The inverter is programmed to shut down if the battery voltage drops below 10V or exceeds 16V; OUTPUT OVERLOAD PROTECTION: The device also switches off if there is a demand greater than 1,500W or 2,250W during a stipulated time. This was the protection that went into the case mentioned above the air conditioning; OVERHEATING PROTECTION: It switches off when its housing heats more than the limit temperature. The table below in the instruction manual indicates each representation of the protections:

PILOT LEDs: The inverter has 3 monitoring LEDs. On the entrance + ventilation side, just to the right of the on / off switch there are two of them. The first “on” indicates when the inverter is running and has a blue color. The second (prot) is the protection indicator. On the other side, to the right of the sockets is the green LED that indicates whether the 120V or 220V output is activated or not.

ALLOY SWITCH OFF AND REMOTE ACTIVATION: The inverter has a very practical switch to turn it on or off. However, if it is installed in a distant or difficult to access location, just use the remote control command. It is an input that just connects a wire with a 10 to 30V direct current signal that it understands as “on”. Just take the positive pole of the battery to it, placing a switch where you see fit. A signal output from other devices can also be used.

In our case, as the inverter is installed in the trunk, we put an on / off switch on the panel and take a very thin wire to the remote entrance. So we can connect it both in the cabin and also in the panel of the inverter via native key.

VENTILATION: The inverter has a cooler that pulls air from one side to get out of the other and ensure the cooling of its internal sinks. Dubbed “smart”, the fan’s speed is controlled exactly by the actual temperature of the inverter. When cold or low power is required, the fan can work at minimum speed or even stop, ensuring silence and energy savings. However, if the inverter is in a place without ventilation or a lot of power is being demanded, the fan will work at maximum, ensuring the preservation of the device. The internal cooler has a bearing system that prevents crashes, fire and guarantees the life of the inverter. Called a “wind tunnel”, the air intake is on one side through the entire appliance to exit the other side.

CONNECTORS: The connectors are ultra practical and easy to handle. They require the use of a halen wrench (not included) but have enough opening for a 33mm² cable (the one indicated for this application power). The screw has a great torque for a tight fit worthy of this 180A connection. Simply connect the positive pole of the battery to the “+” and the negative (or chassis ground) to the “-“. In the middle is the “remote” entry already discussed above, but optional.

OUTLETS: There are two three-pin outlets in Brazilian standard 10A. Sufficient for power, but it is always important to never connect devices that have or add more than 1200W (capacitive or inductive) or 1500W resistive. Otherwise the protection system of the inverter will enter by turning off its output. The ground pin, according to the manufacturer, is connected to the housing of the device and to the negative pole. USINA warns that this output should never be connected in parallel with the concessionaire’s network.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS: Steel plate cabinet with electrostatic painting; 2 NBR14.136 Standard sockets; Pilot led: Indicates whether the inverter output is energized; Input for remote activation: from 10 to 30Vdc to drive the inverter; On / off switch: directly on the inverter; Energy efficiency: greater than 85%; Warranty: 1 year; Dimensions: 33.8cm (length) X 18.2cm (width) X 7.5cm (height); Weight 2.6kg.

PRICE: At the time of this review, the price of the inverter (model of this review 1500W-12V) in the official USINA store was R $ 1,529.00 + FREIGHT. Through the internet, it could be found ranging from R $ 1,400.00 to R $ 1,446.76 (+ shipping).

WHERE TO BUY: in the thousands of websites and physical stores spread across Brazil or the official USINA store on the internet or in the official Mercado Livre store.

Categories
Review

COIFA / PURGE / EXHAUST – RV PARTS

Trailer or Motor Home means freedom to take a complete home wherever you go. The kitchen is one of the important factors of a recreational vehicle and the minimalist space that divides the environments in the same place can receive smell and steam from the preparation of the food. The RV PARTS, brand new equipment for RV’s made sure to send in your hood model for stove to test.

Extractor or Purifier? 

There is a big difference between these two devices even in the kitchen at home. While a DEPURADOR sucks the vapors over the stove, does a kind of filtration and returns the air to the internal environment, an EXHAUST (or COIFA) sends all this sucked air out of the environment. There is no doubt that an extractor hood does a much more efficient job in the kitchen, but it depends on a “chimney”. What is more difficult to implement in a home, is made simpler in a trailer or motor home, since it is enough to make an opening in the roof very close to the device.

The hood of RV PARTS is definitely an extractor hood, since it has a chimney outlet, let alone, it accompanies the product with all the elements for installation including the duct and external hat.

APPLICATION IN THIS REVIEW: 

Our installation scenario will be our home engine that is receiving several upgrades. Originally it was equipped with a very large hood that really wouldn’t fit in the design we were looking for in the new kitchen. It already had an exit chimney, which made our life even easier. With much smaller dimensions and parts to be built in, we can have a much more discreet and modern hood. For this, we will try to embed part of it in the overhead cupboard just above the stove.

MODEL RVDP-0001: 

The model of the catalog sent by RV PARTS has a stainless steel finish, digital front panel, two motors with three speed levels, timer and light. It has a removable and washable metal filter and comes with the chimney kit composed of the flexible duct, base, hat and clamp. It is 50cm wide and 30cm deep with 220V power.

UNBOXING: 

In the cardboard box and protected with side isopores, the hood comes wrapped in a transparent plastic together with the installation kits and instruction manual.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: 

Quality surprised. Stainless steel is present in the entire appliance and not only in the parts that will be exposed. The chimney outlet has a good gauge and also has a floodgate system that closes when the appliance is turned off, preventing dust or dirt from entering the chimney. The accordion duct also liked to be very malleable and reach a great length when stretched.

INSTALLATION: 

After removing the old hood, the situation of the cabinet was not so good around the chimney outlet, but it did not matter, as the entire bottom would be cut out to embed the new hood. Before that we finished all the finishing of the wall. As the old hood was giant, part of it took up a portion on the curtain molding, which would no longer be necessary. Thus, we extended the thickness of the molding to the cupboard, made a decorative detail just below to increase the reflection of the lighting and took advantage of the smaller width to gain an extra socket in the kitchen (which will not be for the hood, but for general use on the countertop ).

With the bottom of the cupboard trimmed in the correct measurements, it was time to put the device in place and put it in position until it could be fixed. As our case is very specific, we drilled holes in the sides of the hood to be able to screw it on the walls. At this time we were able to certify the quality of the hood material, as it was not easy to beat the drill in stainless steel. On the left side, we used an aluminum corner to finish it, since our cut made right there in the closet had not been finished well. It is worth mentioning that, for new joinery projects, the RV PARTS appliance already has original holes and screws with nuts that accompany the product.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTION: 

Although the hood comes with a plug, we chose to cut the cable and make a direct connection, since everything there would be built-in. After the amendment was made, it was enough to collect everything to later be covered by the cabinet finish.

CHIMNEY CONNECTION: 

As the home engine already had an exhaust system, we chose to keep the original Turiscar chimney. Therefore, we do not install the base and hat of the kit. The plastic duct served perfectly to make the chimney’s plumb break slightly in relation to the hood exit. The fittings are precise and made the work of this installation much easier.

INTERNAL FINISH: 

There is an extra start in the “recessed” part of the hood, which required more work to finish the cabinet. In order not to lose space, we chose to make a “step” in the finish. Finally, another finish covered the chimney duct, leaving everything hidden and ready to receive the usual belongings.

OPERATION:

The hood operation is super simple and practical. With the panel at eye level, all you have to do is turn on the device so that the lights of the “touch” buttons come on, which will be able to control the hood. Each of the three speeds can be chosen by their respective buttons. To turn off the fan, simply press the corresponding speed button or turn off the device by touching the central “power” button. This must be turned on for the functions to be activated. In addition to the lighting that is activated by the corresponding button, we can also activate the “timer” mode of the exhaust. So you can drop the hood by exhausting the last gases and smells without worrying about having to go out and turn it off. During our day-to-day tests, we had an excellent hood effect, exhausting smoke,

NOISE LEVEL: 

No hood is very quiet, as the service of drawing in air from a very large surface makes the suction work very demanding. But at low speed the noise is quite low and reasonable. The maximum speed makes a lot of noise, but the least of the problems when we need that extra force to remove steam, smoke or that strong smell when we let something burn in the pan.

LIGHTING: 

The lighting has a decorative tone in a purple light that can illuminate the stove at a time of night that does not want to disturb the sleep of those who sleep next door. In our case, it perfectly matched the decorative light of the ceiling air conditioner, composing with it a very “dim” lighting that is very interesting in the home engine.

Alternatives: 

The practicality of the hood in the trailer can extend to the restricted use of the stove. As the environment is small, we usually use the connected thing at least when we are using the oven. Thus, the heat that the stove emanates from the interior can be relieved by being expelled out.

FEATURES: Dimensions: 50cm X 30cm. Heights: External panel = 5.5cm; Internal Low = 14cm; Internal Medium = 16cm; Internal maximum = 19cm; Voltage: 220V; Model: CXW-190-M3, Power: 218W; Air flow: 480m³ / h; Output gauge: 100mm (4 ″); Maximum noise: 52db; Weight: 6kg.

PRICE: At the time of shipment by RV PARTS, The declared value was R $ 1,590.00 9 value for reference only for this article).

WHERE TO BUY: At the RV PARTS showroom or at the various resellers on the internet and in physical stores throughout Brazil.

Categories
Review

Geladeira 12V Duplex GELBOX

Those who camp with a recreational vehicle know that the refrigerator is practically mandatory. The extra space that allows less “portable” refrigeration equipment, which is more practical and fixedly installed, ends up configuring one of the differentials of RV’s. In larger models, refrigerators of the same size as those we use at home are allowed. As in Brazil there are no large refrigerators specifically for motorhomes, it is common to convert residential models with the well-known 12V COMPRESSORS. The Gelbox , reference this market has not only the compressors for these conversions, but also sells ready refrigerator. It was exactly one of them that the company sent us for REVIEW.

CONVENTIONAL FRIDGE + INVERTER:

As much as one can defend its use, especially in view of the initial cost, this combination is definitely not the most suitable for a recreational vehicle that values ​​its itinerant fundamentals. First, because conventional 110V / 220V compressors are not designed to work with bumps in the road. The service life of the motor will not be the same, except in the case of high quality pure wave sine inverters. Second, because the use of an inverter causes a lot of energy dissipated in heat to be lost during the transformation process, in addition to requiring that it has a much higher power than the refrigerator’s nominal power due to the “starting peak” of the motor. In summary, if your search is for AUTONOMY and battery energy savings, opting for a 12V compressor will immediately guarantee a savings of at least 40%.

12V COMPRESSOR: 

In addition to being specific for on-board use, the compressor that works in direct current has a much lower consumption, given the requirements mentioned above. As they are made for specific use in vehicles, they are ready to receive the swings and bumps of the roads. Contrary to what some disseminate, a 12V compressor is not a conventional device with a built-in inverter.

GELBOX COMPRESSOR: 

We were happy when GELBOX decided to send a model of yours for review, because in our research, we saw a great public satisfaction for the brand. Including service, quality, effect and energy savings.

WHY DO WE CHOOSE THE COMPLETE REFRIGERATOR? 

It is more than evident that the person can buy a refrigerator of his own taste and opportunity and then convert it (purchase a 12V compressor and change the original 110V / 220V). Undoubtedly it is much more affordable, in addition to the range of models and brands being greater. However, we wanted to abbreviate all stages, in addition to having all the installation and care already enshrined in GELBOX . The model already pre-chosen by us was already the Electrolux DC35A.

MODEL CHOICE:

We chose the Electrolux DC35A model for several reasons. First because it is a model with separate FREEZER, popularly known as duplex. Second for its dimensions that are quite compact and compatible with the interior of a home engine and at the same time offering a very large internal volume (260L). To be converted into 12V it is very important to take into account that the refrigerator cannot have either a digital panel or an automatic defrost system (Frost Free). This is because all of these systems also work from 220V or 110V and cannot be converted. In a traditional refrigerator with only mechanical sensor internal lighting and analog thermostat regulation, simply changing the compressor and the internal lamp already converts it completely to 12V (or 24V). This is the case of this model from Electrolux, which already offers an internal drawer, grid shelves, multiple shelves at the door and a great freezer to house frozen food. Everything relying on a design that pleases us a lot, having the handles integrated in the doors freeing the circulation (corridor) of external handles. Another thing that attracts us is the refrigerator has a rear heat dissipation grille (the most modern ones have it hidden, but in RVs the rear ventilation is not as effective as at home). Finally, to compensate for the non-existence of the “frost free” system, the model has a manual defrost system that promises a slower and smarter accumulation of ice and a defrost drain system that makes this service more practical. In this set, the refrigerator already has an internal DRAIN system, which is very important for intermittent use. There is a drain in both the freezer and the bottom of the refrigerator, draining all the defrost water to an external rear tray.

Unboxing: The Gelbox sent in the fridge already completinha and converted via carrier. After a very long wait due to the mess of the beginning of the pandemic / quarantine, it finally came into our hands. It arrived in the same packaging as the original Electrolux, obviously violated since it was opened for Gelbox to do the conversion. All plasticized, it also came with a styrofoam base, superior protection and angles. Inside the components all attached with tapes so that nothing is damaged during transport. The Instruction Manual was also inside.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: 

What stands out the most at first glance is the original Electrolux material. A very well built refrigerator with very fine finishes and good materials. Turning its back, we could see the new compressor very well installed, fixed and accommodated in the “cockpit”. The “head” of the new compressor matched the drain water tray, where its heat helps in evaporation. In addition to the welded piping, we could see the attached electronic unit and some wiring strange to common refrigerators. The thick brown and blue wires are from the 12V power supply, which has already been accompanied by the appropriate vehicle standard fuse. The thin red and black wiring, on the other hand, are from the LED indicator that was installed on the refrigerator’s internal control panel.

FREEZER:

The freezer compartment has large 53L in a well-sized format that fits a lot. There, Electrolux lacked an internal shelf to accommodate small belongings and the ice tray that is optional and must be purchased separately. The door is also not used, but we know that this guarantees greater thermal insulation. The refrigerator is not frost free. There is this same model with the function on the market, but it is not possible to convert it to 12V, since it uses electrical resistors and circuits that would all have to be changed, also resulting in a higher consumption of batteries. For those who travel by motor home, they are used to having to turn off and clean the refrigerator when returning from the tour, which ends up forcing the defrosting work. However, the model used for conversion to 12V by GELBOX has a “cicle defrost” system. It is a system of built-in side compartments so that ice accumulates there and not in the Freezer chamber, greatly delaying the effect of ice formation in the freezer. The compartment also has an internal drain that sends the defrost water (when carried out) into the refrigerator, avoiding having to pull that water and wet the floor. There is a cover to block this drain.

REFRIGERATOR:

The bottom part that makes the refrigerator function, has 207L of internal volume. They are very well distributed, taking all the comfort of a residential refrigerator into the home engine. The shelves are wired, which is most effective in a recreational vehicle (the glass shelves of the most expanded residential refrigerators end up getting dirty and scratching with the movement of the roads). There are three shelves, 4 spaces, since the top of the drawer also supports many foods. The large vegetable drawer can also accommodate various organizations for travelers. Internally the compartment is illuminated with a 12V lamp that replaced the original in a well molded panel that also incorporates the thermostat temperature adjustment. The door can be used with three shelves, one of which can be used on both sides, or as a door for five cans or accommodating the basket of eggs that also accompanies the product. The lower shelf has a height to accommodate large bottles and a fastening system that helps a lot when traveling. It failed to say that the internal shelves of the refrigerator have several level positions to be chosen. The icing on the cake for this in-vehicle refrigerator is its internal drain system. At the top of this compartment there is a cooler plate at the bottom. Recommended never touch anything with it. ice is formed and water is also condensed there. Both this condensed water as well as the water from defrosting the freezer run down the back of the refrigerator, detached from the shelves, reaching a lower drain. This drain is destined for a tray that is glued above the compressor that uses its heat to help evaporate the water. For cases where an even more efficient drain is required, it is possible to adapt a hose from this tray to outside the car. We leave this task for the future.

DRAINS:

One aspect of this model of refrigerator that perfectly applies to equipment for recreational vehicles is the drain. This is because in addition to suffering a strong temperature variation during the day, which can result in isolated defrosts both in the freezer and in the refrigerator, in the trailer or motor home, we do not use the refrigerator as at home, that is, always on. It is common that after spending weekends, vacation weeks and etc., we turn off, defrost and clean the refrigerator much more frequently and this results in defrosting and water formation. With a drain system, either clean or even dirty water does not need to be collected. You can even turn it off during the trip back where the water naturally flows through the drains. The Freezer has a drain that drains the water from the top to the refrigerator. The refrigerator, on the other hand, has a drain under the bottom that sends the water to an external tray positioned on the compressor and that uses its heat to assist evaporation. A great and easy option is to adapt a drain in this tray through a hose to the floor.

TOP DRAIN (FREEZER)

EXTERNAL DRAIN AND TRAY

INSTALLATION: 

To start installing the new refrigerator on the home engine, we first prepare its niche. As the original was a Gas Consul (ammonia), the compartment had a chimney. This will be preserved now, because as the heat from the refrigerator and compressor grating tends to rise, it will naturally be exhausted by the outlet in the ceiling. To avoid a common occurrence of birds nesting in that chimney, we installed a small mosquito net. We also fixed the old 220V wiring that has now been diverted for use in the kitchen hood. It’s time to send the refrigerator into the vehicle.

With the help of our friend Castor, we entered the device through the vehicle door. This is one of the advantages of this model, which has a somewhat smaller width than usual. As most RVs have doors from 50cm to 60cm, the 54.8cm width of the refrigerator was very suitable for the opening of our door, which is 58cm. Even so, as the side of the motorhome is curved, the bottom of the open door ended up narrowing this gap in the bottom, forcing us to lay down the device for its entrance. Its almost 50kg weight requires at least two people to work. Once inside, it is easier to lift it for displacement alone.

First we put the refrigerator inside the niche to study how we would do the fixings. One thing that we never liked in some motor homes is the fact that the original legs and feet are kept, and the configuration in this type of installation is built-in. In addition to losing a huge space, there is a very large gap between the floor and the refrigerator, in addition to interfering too much in the design of the environment. Therefore, our studies were based exactly on the removal of the feet and those pipes that would be too coarse in the joinery.

After removing the feet and the mufflers from the refrigerator, the best idea for fixing the appliance to the home motor soon came. All four feet are threaded, three of them with “male” thread, being formed by screws with the plastic base involving two heads. The fourth foot is a nut, with the screw rod attached to the refrigerator exactly where the door hinge is. So, we put the refrigerator back in the place we wanted and marked exactly where the original feet were located. Withdrawal, we were able to drill the four holes that drove the floor and the floor plate of the home engine.

Now positioned without the feet, we start placing the refrigerator from that threaded rod fixed in the base, inserting it in the corresponding hole. Not before taking the opportunity to review the settings of the doors that are right there and the screws that we removed and replaced to remove the canopies. Then it was only necessary to access the lower part of the floor from the outside of the home motor to insert the nut in the rod shank. Then we just fixed the other 3 screws that we used by the way of the original feet, removing the plastic bases. Ready. The refrigerator was in position and firm on the base as it would never be in a residence.

Then it was time to remove the protection from the screws on the upper hinges to also review the adjustment of the doors. There, we also used the protective plastic to use as a mold and wear the top wood batten that will make the composition of the cabinet on the refrigerator. Although the refrigerator is firmly attached to the floor, the road swing can still make its upper part swing. In this way, we provide side and bottom wooden blocks to prevent this movement.

Then it was time to adjust and reassemble the upper cabinet that lost a few centimeters due to the new refrigerator being a little taller than the original gas. In addition to the 12V electrical connection, the task of making the two finishes of the side spans we made in white to compose with the refrigerator panel was left.

On the floor, no finishing needed to be done, since the refrigerator is supported very close to the floor, leaving a few millimeters for ventilation. Nothing else can be seen leaving the finish in the perfect decorative context and befitting a recreational vehicle.

OPERATION:After a few months of use, the refrigerator proved to be totally effective. The thermostat, which has never crossed the midline of the regulation, already makes the refrigerator freeze a lot. We confess that after many years using a minibar in the trailer, we lost ourselves in the immensity of the 2O7 liters of the refrigerator that spent a few weeks cluttered and disorganized in the motor home. The lighting covers the entire interior of the refrigerator and the practicality of the shelves and drawer works optimally. In the Freezer, such an optional shelf is really needed. The price is not even high at the official Electrolux store, but the same or higher value freight makes us give up buying it immediately. The compartment fulfills its promise, freezing and conserving everything very well. Two and a half months since we started using it, a lot of ice hasn’t accumulated on the walls (just something acceptable),

CONVERSION: 

Although we have purchased the complete refrigerator already converted into 12V, you can transform any existing fridge or freezer with GELBOX compressor. They have different models ranging from 25BAR, passing through 30, 35 to 65 so that it can be applied according to the internal capacity of the refrigerator. With the compressor that already comes with the electronic control panel, just replace it with the original 110V or 220V welding the input and output of the copper pipe circuit. Any refrigeration technician can do the job. Then, special attention is needed to connect the new wiring. Finally, the refrigerator’s lighting will be out of date, and the internal lamp should be replaced by a 12V (or 24V) worrying about the polarity. In time, it must be said that there are 24V options of GELBOX compressors for application in trucks or motorhomes that use bus chassis and rely on the 24V electrical system.

ELECTRICAL SCHEME: 

In the case of our compressor, despite having arrived installed, we were able to check its entire electrical system. There are 8 connectors on the electronic unit, the first two of which are 12V. Then there are the connections for the analog thermostat and outputs for lighting supply, pilot led and also an optional fan for the compressor.

CONNECTION IN 110V or 220V: Despite being 12V or 24V in direct current, a source or converter is enough for the refrigerator to work in the outlet without the need for any battery. It is only necessary that the source has the necessary power to start the engine. The company markets a specific converter. In the home motor, there is an intelligent charger (float) plugged into the 220V that keeps the battery charged and powers the refrigerator when camping.

REPLACEMENTS: 

The Gelbox sells separately, if necessary, only the converter without the electronic unit or only this controller unit.

FEATURES (REFRIGERATOR): Total storage capacity 260L; Freezer storage capacity: 53L; Dimensions: Height 1,62m, Width 54,80cm, Depth 61,30cm; Weight: 49kg; Reversible door: No; Usable freezer door: No; Cold water dispenser: No; Ice dispenser: No; Refrigerator shelf: Lined; Can holders: Yes (5); Bottle holder: yes.

FEATURES (COMPRESSOR): Model: BAR35; MOTOR: HERMETIC 12 V OR 24 V AUTOMATIC; Rotation Speed: DE 2000 TO 3500 RPM; KCL / H 51.9 A 86.5; BTU / H 204.6 A 341.0; Volume of oil in the compressor: 160ml; – TYPE OF EFFICIENCY: ¨FC¨; “CE” CERTIFICATE.

PRICE: At the time of this review, the COMPLETE REFRIGERATOR was sold for R $ 3,800.00 at GELBOX  + Shipping. For the option of converting a refrigerator of this type, the compressor + controller was sold on the SITE for R $ 1,300 + shipping.

WHERE TO BUY: On the GELBOX website , via phones or whatsapp (47) 9.8856-2530 or 9.8816-9880 , email ( barsan@gelbox.com.br ). The factory’s headquarters are located in Rio do Sul – Santa Catarina.

Categories
Review

KEBO Full Range Voltage Stabilizers

Camping crowded on holidays or that precarious electricity at the most rustic support points can mean low voltage and insufficient electricity to touch your devices. Especially refrigerators and air conditioners, many other equipment can also burn with such a fluctuation of energy or simply not turn on. 

To solve this problem definitively, we received the two models of KEBO STABILIZER from KIOOPS. Automatic, powerful, without selector keys and best of all: It touches all types of devices including motors and refrigeration compressors. Let’s test?

ELECTRICAL REALITY IN BRAZILIAN CAMPINGS:

Every day more campsites have sockets to connect devices and lighting in the tents and also to plug in recreational vehicles. Trailers and motor homes natively already have an electrical system that touches lights, a refrigerator, TVs, appliances and battery chargers. It turns out that the electrical installations of many campsites tend to be undersized, with fine, long wiring and with many plugs at the end. On major holidays many equipment ends up being connected at the same time. This is added to the consumption also greater than the usual of the facilities of the establishment that include the electric showers of the bathrooms. Not to mention the local electricity network that also suffers from the high consumption of the tourist destination in places that are generally more distant, as is the majority of campsites. The result of all of this is a huge power surge where the voltage plummets in hourly data. Mainly due to the unbridled use of pure resistance appliances, such as sandwich makers, heaters, plates and hair dryers, in addition to electric showers and lights being turned on.

WEAK AND WEAK ENERGY: Every time someone turns on a device there is a drop in the voltage of that network. Especially if it is at the same branch of your outlet, the energy will increase and decrease constantly. The “bath time” is the worst of them. In addition to the electric showers at full steam, there are hair dryers and appliances working at dinner just as the lights of the entire camping and city are switched on. This “coming and going” in the voltage can cause major damage to the equipment.

BELOW LOW VOLTAGE EXAMPLES AT THE CAMPING: 58V and 70V input (in blue)

EFFECTS ON LAMPS: Nowadays even LED lamps are not limited to emitting a weak light like the old incandescent ones. They start to blink madly, causing enormous discomfort in the environment. Not to say that burning after a few minutes can be inevitable.

REFRIGERATORS IN THE CAMP:

Tents have increasingly used mini-fridges, just as small trailers have them natively. Larger trailers and motor homes already have large and even “duplex” refrigerators, with some having separate freezers. This type of appliance suffers too much from the problem of energy fluctuation, in addition to being a device that also causes this fluctuation in the network. They work with a compressor motor that uses a very high load at the time of “start”. When they work, they lower the mains voltage and sometimes need to abort this mission due to a lack of sufficient energy. As refrigerators turn the engine on and off several times a day, they end up suffering from this variation in addition to causing it.

AIR CONDITIONING: 

Trailers and motor homes are often equipped with air conditioners of various types. As it is a vehicle, it suffers more from the action of the sun and the heat, being often much more uncomfortable than the fresh tents in the intense heat. Then the air conditioning ends up being paramount. However, this is the equipment that suffers the most from insufficient electricity. In addition to being equipment that “pulls” a lot of energy, the compressor “starting peak” requires even more power. The result of this is a large fluctuation of the trailer’s energy while the air is running. In the vast majority of times when energy is low, the air doesn’t even turn on.

USE OF TRANSFORMERS: Even with options for 110V devices in campsites served by 220V sockets, conventional transformers do not solve the problem. This is because they only “break in half” the voltage of the outlet. If the input is 220V, the output is 110V, but if the camping outlet is 180V (which is not uncommon on certain dates and occasions), the transformer will deliver only 90V, which will not touch some equipment. In any case, it is always recommended to have one of these in the trash.

COMMON STABILIZERS: Devices common in the use of computers and printers, are not very usable in camping. They have low rated power, very limited regulation ranges and are not designed for equipment with a motor or compressor. For lighting it can have some effect, but hardly when the voltage is too low. There are some more enhanced models with larger regulation ranges and that are prepared for greater powers, however their electronic controllers are incompatible with air conditioning devices, being very “crazy” at the time of starting leading to the burning of relays.

BIVOLT OR FULL RANGE: 

In Brazil, the vast majority of campsites offer 220V power outlets. In the states of São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais, it is very common to have campgrounds with 110V outlets, which may exist throughout the rest of the country in isolated cases. Stabilizers can be of the “bivolt” type when they have inputs that vary both in the range of 220V and 110V, regardless of the output. There is usually a selector switch that must be adjusted prior to connection, leading the camper to have to make sure the voltage of the location and risk burning the device if it is connected incorrectly. The “full range” or “autovolt” equipment, on the other hand, has electronic controllers that automatically read the voltage of the socket and adjust themselves to derive their specific output.

VA COEFFICIENTS (Volts X Ampere):

All transformation equipment works nominally in Watts (w), but must always be applied in (VA) according to the type of equipment to be connected. This applies to transformers, stabilizers, chargers, converters and also inverters. Devices with resistive loads (heaters, dryers, toasters, sandwich makers, electric pans and the like) can be applied by nominal power, that is, the same total 5,000 or 10,000 W of the stabilizer in this review. If inductive or capacitive loads are applied, such as electronic equipment or using motors for example, the coefficient 0.8 must be applied. So to turn on the refrigerator and the air conditioning, we must consider that the maximum consumption of this stabilizer will be [(0.8 x 5,000W) = 4,000W in the case of 5kVA] and [(0.8 x 10,000W) = 8.

THE KEBO VOLTAGE STABILIZER: After all this theory, we come to the focus of this review. In two different configurations, one in the high 5,000VA (5kVA) of power and the other in the exaggerated 10,000VA (10kVA), the stabilizers have all the best characteristics of those mentioned above, added to more details that will be listed here. In short, it has a special transformer (more economical), with FULL RANGE input range (from 100V to 260V), High power, 220V stabilized output and still allows the connection of ANY EQUIPMENT as long as its power is compatible. Including air conditioning engines and compressors and refrigerators. Below some particularities that attracted us a lot in the acquisition of this product:

TOROIDAL TRANSFORMER: 

Internally, all regulation ranges (from 100V to 260V) are served by an internal transformer with multiple bearings. However, traditional transformers (square-shaped) form a lot of magnetic field and also heat up a lot, resulting in a LOSS of energy in magnetism and heat. The KEBO stabilizer uses the so-called TOROIDAL transformer, of round shape (ring), which contemplates several advantages: Less magnetic field irradiation; very little consumption when no load; Lower loss rate; Less voltage variation at the output; Smaller size; Silent.

INITIALIZATION DELAY SYSTEM (DELAY): As everyone knows, when there is no light even for a few minutes, it is always prudent to turn off the main switch (circuit breaker) to avoid the “return spikes”. When the light comes back, it comes on strong and with a high discharge that can (and often does) burn appliances. Both models of the KEBO stabilizer have a delay system. As soon as the electric light comes back (or is turned on for the first time) it waits a predetermined time until it releases its input (connection). This time can be chosen by the key on the panel. The smallest, of 6 seconds, is enough for the light to return and stabilize (and burn all the equipment of others that are not protected). The longest is 180 seconds, making the device wait 3 minutes for this reconnection.


(Countdown on the display)

ROBUST CONNECTION: 

One of the biggest problems in this type of equipment is due to the sockets, plugs and wiring of input and output that end up being very dimensioned in the limit. In the case of KEBO there is no such problem. There is a dock of connectors of the same pattern as circuit breakers that receive very thick wires and cables with great security. We will detail this step in the installation.

GENERAL SWITCH SWITCH: 

The stabilizer “on / off” switch is already a circuit breaker. DIN standard, it has all the lightness of the lever, reliability of the contact and the protection of trip, eliminating the need to change fuses, so woefully common in common stabilizers.

VOLTIMETERS: 

A simple digital panel brings in large numbers the voltmeters that measure the input voltage (in red) and the output voltage (in green). Three more LEDs indicate the operating status of the device, the first indicating “normal operation”, the second indicating “delay time” and the last indicating “protection” mode, in which the output is blocked in case of overload, short-circuit, undervoltage or overvoltage of the input or overheating of the transformer.

UNBOXING: 

The stabilizers arrived by carrier, each in its well illustrated box. The weight is great. They come well accommodated and fitted in styrofoam molds and wrapped in a transparent plastic. Right away we were able to check out Kiopps’ import exclusivity, as the product comes all screen printed with information in Portuguese. It also comes with an instruction manual and a kit of very strong screws and metal anchors to fix the stabilizer on the wall. Even a detailed template on quality paper accompanies the product to assist with installation.

RESPECT CONNECTORS: 

After loosening the two screws that open the connection cover, it already comes out with the connector bus attached. They are screws in the same connection pattern as the circuit breakers that have an “overwhelming plate”. This is important so that the screw does not crush the wires of the cable to be fixed. With a philips wrench it is easily moved and a screwdriver gives that final grip.

APPLICATIONS: 

With the two models that KIOOPS / KEBO sent us, we installed them in two locations. The large model (10kVA) was installed in the home engine. The smaller model (5kVA) with power to spare for this application was installed in our trailer. In both cases we intend to say goodbye to the problems of oscillation or weak energy, especially in campsites during Carnival or New Year.

NO MOTORHOME: 

Our motor home has an original converter that automatically distributes the various sockets both 110V and 220V internally as well as other equipment that vary in voltage. For this reason, we decided to continue with his presence, even though we no longer use his battery charger (replaced by floating and smart ones) or the manual voltage selector. In this way, we also apply KEBO to the vehicle’s energy INPUT, where the input will always be regulated at 220V so that the electrical system can work. In the case of those who have all the equipment and internal outlets at 220V, then they can “discard” all other transformation equipment, leaving only with KEBO.

USE:We tested in several situations even provoked in front of our old manual selection converter to derive higher and lower voltages before entering KEBO. In all of them we were successful in obtaining 220V at the output, except when we dropped 100V. Sometimes, starting the air conditioner can cause this entry to fall if the light is at this minimum limit and that is why we prepare ourselves with a conventional TRAFO to switch on before KEBO in extreme cases of 110V campsites that are going to be crowded. The Delay effect works perfectly even indicating the countdown of the chosen time on the display. We chose 6 seconds for the obvious reasons of testing, but in the common camps we will use the 180s option to ensure greater safety or to avoid the “come and go” when the light goes out in less than 3 minutes. The stabilizing effects can be noticed when the device changes stages. It is clear that the stages are activated more slowly and this is exactly the reason that allows the connection of compressors and other heavy equipment. Both the stabilizer voltmeter and our external voltmeter always mark the stabilized output at around 220V, sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less.

WALL FIXING ITEMS: Although we do not use them in recreational vehicles, the KEBO Stabilizer comes with a wall fixing kit. As the device is heavy, metal plugs, screws and even a template made of cardboard are placed inside the box so that it can be fixed to the wall safely. The metal bushings expand when the screws are tightened leaving everything securely attached.

Categories
Review

Incredible trailers: 10 houses on wheels you would like to own

Taking your home for your vacation trips is the dream of many people, which is why more and more we have incredible trailers planned to unite the passion for travel with the warmth of home.

Regardless of your profile, it is very possible that there is a trailer that suits you, and it was with this variety in mind that we selected the following trailer models – they bring together models for all tastes, but not for all budgets. Check it out and then tell us which one you would choose to call yours:

1. $ 2.8 million motorhome

This is one of those consumer dream machines, you know? The price is not for nothing. In addition to the modern exterior look and mirrored details, the interior of this motorhome is jaw-dropping. The living space is super-cozy, luxurious and very well decorated, looking like a cool bar or restaurant.

It is interesting to see how the planned furniture of these incredible trailers shows us that you can use every possible space to create cabinets and spaces where you can store the most diverse items.

The kitchen of this trailer is also to be envied, and the happy owner will not miss anything when aboard this luxury home on wheels. Luxury does not miss out on sleep either, with a room that has a queen size bed that comes and goes with the push of a button – seriously.

Watch the video above to get a sense of the type of mobile accommodation we’re talking about. There is a fortune well invested, huh!

2. The bus that turned home

This looks like an ordinary vehicle, with the look of a gringo movie and everything, but the interior of this motorhome is surprising, both for its incredible planning and comfort. A little more affordable than the model mentioned above, this teteia costs “only” US $ 500 thousand.

One of the coolest things about this machine is that, at the touch of a button, it doubles in size and becomes a double-decker bus, with space for many people. The interior has an excellent sound system, lighting, planned furniture and basically everything a person needs to survive without complaining about anything.

incredible trailers

A curiosity: this motorhome belongs to Simon Cowell, famous for being a juror in music programs and, apparently, the guy likes to keep his health under control, so he installed a “medical clinic” in this trailer, where he has access to simple equipment to measure vital signs and a monitor that puts you in contact with a medical team. Chic, right?

3. Technological motorhome

Here’s another motorized respectful house, huh! With a clean and very elegant decor, this trailer is a perfect example of a motorhome that does not lose anything for luxury homes.

With ample living space in the living room, dining room and kitchen, this beauty has an impeccable lighting system, many sound and video options, in addition to, of course, its own Wi-Fi system. incredible, cozy and with heated floors, for cold days. Watch the video above to learn more about this model.

4. A flawless trailer

Here is a great model in the selection of incredible, almost ostentatious trailers, which even has removable stairs for external access. This powerful machine is one of the most complete inside, with a kitchen that even has an island, spacious furniture, appliances for all types of needs and, of course, a respectful decoration.

The living room has an intelligent sound, image and internet system and, right after, we have access to the bathroom (with double sink and marble in the shower area: O) and the master bedroom, with a king size bed and wardrobes. left over. In front of the trailer are two guest rooms, each with two beds and individual television systems. A treat.

5. Will Smith’s motorhome

This two-story, simply huge trailer is owned by actor and producer Will Smith. With just a touch, the trailer increases in size and becomes a huge luxury home on wheels. The interior of this giant has specific spaces for many things, such as a makeup area and a wonderful closet.

All rooms are highly functional and have many amenities, such as TV sets, fully equipped kitchen, living and dining room and whatever else you can imagine. The rooms are all separated by automatic mirrored doors, which further increase the feeling of space.

The second floor of this trailer is a conference and meeting room and, of course, it can become a kind of cinema for that good movie from time to time. With electric curtains that can stop outside light from entering, this room is simply amazing and very comfortable. Well done, Will Smith!

6. A trailer for you who want to travel the world

This model is more humble, at least in terms of space. Its interior decoration, however, is to take your hat off. With a fully equipped kitchen, dining room, bedroom and bathroom, traveling in this motorhome seems to be a privilege and a very comfortable experience.

Unlike the other models, this one is not giant, which makes it a proof that smaller spaces sometimes do not owe us anything in terms of comfort and practicality.

7. The school bus that became an Off-Grid house

Talking about sustainable resources is increasingly necessary, which is why this project developed by a young couple left us in awe. They reformed the powerful themselves, which is all equipped with solar panels and was ready for incredible family trips.

The interior of this bus does not lose anything in beauty and comfort, but it is nice to see that it was planned by “ordinary people”, who had no real fortunes to invest in their motorhome.

The rooms are all well equipped, planned and decorated. Looking at everything from the inside, it is difficult to remember that we are talking about a structure that was once a school bus. For sure, of all the amazing trailers here, this is our favorite. Be sure to watch the video above.

8. Mariah Carey’s motorhome

The rooms are all well equipped, planned and decorated. Looking at everything from the inside, it is difficult to remember that we are talking about a structure that was once a school bus. For sure, of all the amazing trailers here, this is our favorite. Be sure to watch the video above.

You can already see that celebrities like to invest in incredible, luxurious, expandable trailers that look like real mansions on wheels. It wouldn’t be different with diva Mariah Carey, right?

We here in the newsroom think, in particular, that the interior is too dark, perhaps due to the colors chosen for the furniture, but that’s okay, if Mariah likes it, we like it too.

9. Is it greatness you want?

Get ready for a huge trailer, with expandable sides that make the interior feel like a big, spacious home. The decoration was designed to receive many guests and not let any of them feel cramped.

With supermodern lighting and sound systems, this motorhome is a true colossus on wheels and will leave many people thinking here that “wow, this trailer is bigger than my house”. Yeah.

10. 1 million pound trailer

Is there any money left over? ? So maybe you can consider buying this luxurious monstrosity on wheels. Essentially, this machine is a truck that has been transformed into an ostentatious trailer that is the supreme sum of wealth.

With impeccable decoration and thought to be as practical as possible, the interior of this trailer is beautiful and extremely comfortable, with pampering like armchairs that make massage and great sound and television systems.

Between the living room and the bedroom, there is a spacious and practical bathroom. And, if there are guests, above the driver’s cabin has an attached bed, which can be brought down easily. Does it look good to you?

Now tell us: which of these amazing trailers made your jaw drop the most? Which one would you like to call yours?

The Motor Home

Motor Home is currently the most manufactured recreation vehicle in Brazil, given the facilities, comfort and convenience it offers. It also shows greater independence and self-sufficiency in the face of the problems that resulted in the camping crisis. A brief definition of the equipment is necessary before touching on some related themes.

The most appropriate term for Motor Home in our Portuguese language would be “House on wheels”. They are nothing more than trailers mounted on new or used chassis of a motor vehicle, such as vans, buses or trucks. At a minimum, the equipment has a bathroom, kitchen and living room that reverts to a bedroom. Its self-sufficiency is due to the water and battery reservoirs that supply the equipment hydraulically and electrically. It also has gas heating, which also guarantees autonomy for the stove and refrigerator.
The best known small Motor Home in Brazil is the Karmann Ghia Safari. It is mounted on the VW-Kombi and houses all these main accessories. It was manufactured from the 1970s until the mid-1990s. From this model, there are Motor Homes of different sizes and brands that reach more than 13 meters in length. Small or large, some models support a modern and comfortable set of accessories and equipment.

The equipment allows you to reach almost everywhere and offers independence from water, energy, food and shelter issues. Consequently, this fact may lead the owner to isolate himself from basic camping issues, such as: living together, socializing in common spaces, having nature as an extension of his “home” and offering, even if with little, a contribution to tourist income. destination city. Installing your motor home in a camping or specific, organized and safe area will always be more appropriate. In cases of absence of this type of establishment, in this or that city, then you can take advantage of being able to park in the urban center, with some disadvantages such as the lack of campers neighbors, outside area, poor security and so on.

Speaking of camping with a soul, one should always keep in mind the fact that campers form a single family, regardless of the equipment they have. It is common to occur in campgrounds, also due to the physical division due to the organization of the space, a lack of interaction between owners of recreational vehicles and tents. As we said, camping has a cycle that depends on each person’s profile, from one piece of equipment to another. Each with its particularities and costs.

For aspirants of this type of equipment, it is worth remembering that the motor home is camping equipment. If you have never camped, it is worth doing it as a tent to feel the pleasures of the activity. Even though it is much more comfortable to travel, a Motor Home, no matter how equipped it will be, will always be a small space housing with its limitations. These become irrelevant when you love the practice and learn to enjoy nature.

To the owners of this type of vehicle, it is worth the tip of not weakening to the charms of technology. Never forget the campers’ principles that bring a high degree of contact and respect with nature and the conviviality and assistance to others. Don’t be in a hurry to arrive, no matter how much power your engine has. Be sure to privilege the city’s camping and its respective canteen, no matter how much your mobile assets don’t need. And do not choose your destination and camping for the needs of your equipment, such as: water, plenty of electricity or TV signal. Even in a “Top of the Line” Motor Home, with air conditioning, inverter and generator, you, your family and friends will be able to enjoy the chance of having a candlelit dinner or lanterns outdoors…